CLASSIC CRUISING
from attacks by the Allied Forces in World War II. It was enlightening to learn the Norwegian story as we walked to the bun- kers on Storeåsen hill in the centre of this fishing community.
unbelievably massive. This is the Alps with attitude; sheer drops instead of smooth slopes, slate grey instead of sleek green. Seals bask, eagles dare, cathedral aisles
of rock up to 6,000ft high advance and retreat. Thousands of waterfalls thread the cliffs, either spouting in free fall, churn- ing through narrow clefts or fanning like unplaited silk over shoulders of rock. Tiny farms cling to impossible heights and ham- lets cluster round old stone churches at the ends of swaying jetties.
P
rior to embarking this eclectic ves- sel, I checked what weather I could expect and packed accordingly. Like the best laid plans of mice and men, only on one occasion, when I visited the ship’s flying bridge, did I require my Arctic fleece. Not once did I need my rainproof jacket, and the thermal underwear was never creased. I confess to wondering if the weather and seasons were conspiring to play a trick on me but hardy locals were going about their daily tasks as if it was the height of summer.
One benefit of sailing to places slightly out of the customary season is there are no other ships disgorging hundreds of pas- sengers. This became evident at our first port, Stavanger. Here, we wandered peacefully through
the evocative cobbled streets of Gamle Stavanger. Dating from the late 17th early 18th
and centuries, this quaint settlement
of white-washed wooden houses echoes the city’s thousand-year seafaring heritage. Also on our must-see list were the 12th century cathedral and Maritime Museum. Among the world’s most spectacular geo- logical formations, Norway’s fjords are long, narrow inlets stretching deep into the sur- rounding mountains. An afternoon excursion cruise of the Lysefjord navigated past tower-
ing cliffs and soaring peaks of the Kjerag Ridge Mountains to Pulpit Rock, which juts out 182ft above the tranquil water. The following morning the theme contin- ued as we arrived at Eidfjord – cut far into the western coastline. A tour took us past the impressive Skykkjedalsfossen waterfall to the Hardangervidda Nature Centre, set on a tranquil lake near the largest mountain plateau in Europe. Returning to Saga Pearl II, we saw the impressive Sysen Dam and even-mightier Hardanger Glacier. In the Sunnfjord region lays Norway’s westernmost town, Florø. Here we took an intriguing guided tour through tunnels and bunkers built by the Germans as a base to defend their occupied territories
THE SAGA GOES ON
Saga Cruises is undoubtedly a dynamic company and is ensuring its fleet keeps pace with customer demand for ever-more choice. As a result, the company purchased the 37,301-ton Bleu de France from
Croisières de France earlier this year. Although dating from 1982, the ship underwent a £27million refit in 2009
and Saga have announced a multi-million pound makeover this winter, when capacity will be reduced from 1,158 to 706. The newly christened Saga Sapphire will sail on her maiden voyage on
March 26, 2012. Notable additions will be Mountbattens – a speciality restau- rant – an open-air cinema and 25 cabins with balconies. In keeping with the philosophy of visiting parts of the world few other companies consider, Saga Pearl II is setting a course for Northern Norway in February and March next year for two cruises in search of the Northern Lights. This also marks the final cruising season for
Pearl II before she transfers to the Spirit of Ad- venture cruise collection and will operate as Quest of Adventure from next May, replac- ing the 352-passenger Spirit of Adventure. The farewell 14-night cruise to the Mediterranean departs Southampton on April 22, 2012.
and the sea’s hackles bristled as though we had offended it. Captain David Warden- Owen had invited me on to the Bridge for sailaway and, rather than navigate his vessel in the placid seas that greeted our arrival, the strong wind on our starboard bow called on him to show his many years of seamanship skills as the nearest tug was many miles away.
A
After a few tense minutes, we gradu- ally eased away from the berth and swung out towards the open sea. That night, he made an announcement that we might experience some motion of the ocean – an advisory received with an indifferent shrug from the hardy Saganaughts! Sailing under an elegant bridge to
historic Kristiansund, we docked in the quaint harbour – epicentre of the dried- cod capital of Norway. After lunch in the Verandah Restaurant, aft on Boat Deck, when there was the chance to taste the lo- cal speciality klippfisk (dried, salted cod), we walked to Kirklandet Church.
s the last of the ship’s lines were released, with the sun caressing the crystalline air, a wind surged
Summer 2011 I WORLD OF CRUISING
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