However, although UV exposure is a major contributor to pigmentation issues, there are other causes too. It can sometimes occur purely through ageing and certain illnesses, drugs and hormonal changes, such as the menopause, pregnancy, or taking the contraceptive pill, can also promote skin darkening.
What is obvious is that many of your clients will suffer from some form of pigmentation problem, particularly your older female clients. Many clients may be embarrassed by this and looking for help in how to overcome the issues. This is when it pays for you to know the ins and outs of pigmentation and how to tackle it.
Ins and outs
Being able to treat skin pigmentation issues is a definite asset to your salon or Spa treatment menu. However, it’s not one of the easiest conditions to treat and requires knowledge on the subject and the treatments available.
“Pigmentation is often one of the most challenging skin conditions to treat, with a variety of causes of pigmentation it’s important that professional therapists have a true understanding of the types of pigmentation and the ‘cause and effect’, and how this can be treated effectively long term with both professional products/ treatments and also with correct homecare such as using a correct sunscreen,” advise Eve Taylor™.
Before treatment can begin, therapists should ascertain what type and severity of pigmentation their client is suffering from. It is important to consider the depth of the discoloured pigment. In most cases the discolouration tends to be superficial, but in a few cases it can lie within the dermis.
• Epidermal Pigmentation
If the pigment is in the epidermis then it can be treated with topical treatments.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beauty - Treating Pigmentation • Dermal Pigmentation
Deep pigmentation can be treated with peels but can take a long time to fade. You may be able to remove it quickly with Intense Pulsed Light or Lasers. These work by targeting the pigmentation in the skin with a wavelength of light that fragments the melanin in the melacyte, bringing it to the surface where it eventually peels off. Clients usually require between three and six treatments, depending on the depth of the pigmentation.
There are several ways a therapist can identify the depth of pigmentation and UV damage to the skin before they prescribe a specific treatment or product. “I use a Wood’s light (black light) or a UVB camera to reveal facial dark spots before they are visible in ordinary light,” says Dr Baumann.
If you are worried about the appearance of a clients’ pigmentation, it is best to have them checked out by a medical professional to confirm that the area is benign and safe to treat.
On topic
Topical treatments can be used directly on the skin to treat some cases of pigmentation as well as to prevent any further pigmentation occurring.
“Skin pigment formation can be prevented by two main mechanisms,” advises Dr Baumann. “The first is to inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which prevents the formation of melanin. Many topical cosmetic ingredients such as kojic acid, arbutin and licorice extract are tyrosinase inhibitors. The second method of preventing the production of skin colour is to forestall the transfer of the colour into the skin cells.”
Once your clients start on the treatment journey for their pigmentation, it’s important that they prevent any further damage to the skin and one of the best pieces of advice you could give them is to protect their skin with an SPF, even on a cloudy day!
changing colours
Take a look at what’s available for the treatment of pigmentation . . .
Eve Taylor™Brightening Masque is a hydroquinone free brightening masque that contains biological plant extracts known for their brightening action. The synergestic action of the active plant extracts inhibits the melanin synthesis (the main factor which determines skin colour); by deactivating the tyrosinase enzyme (tyrosinase is similar to arbutin). In the case of hyper-pigmentation, brown spots appear and with the inclusion of vitamin C within the masque helps to act as an anti-radical to protect the skin against free radical scavengers.
• Eve Taylor: 053 914 3032
Phyt’s SPF 50 is a 100% pure and organic product and is a must for after IPL and Laser treatments. Sun factor must be worn after light treatments as the melanin in the skin is affected and therefore could change in UV light, appearing as pigmentation on the surface. SPF will deter UV rays and keep the skin protected so that clients can be confident outdoors day- to-day. The fact that there are no chemicals in this factor 50 also ensures that nothing will react negatively with the melanin, only protect. The SPF 50 can also be used as a moisturiser and contains titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ylang to firm, argan oil to nourish, and vitamin E to fight free radicals.
• Virginie Claire: 01 452 69 73
turn the page for more . . .
41
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84