SUNDAY, JUNE 20, 2010 The Impulsive Traveler Rocket City’s down-to-earth spaces
Third in a month-long series spotlighting the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Distinctive Destinations for 2010.
by Becky Krystal You might first notice the towering
Saturn V rocket during the descent into Huntsville International Airport. The landmark rises above the horizon in much the same way as the space and de- fense industries dominate the reputa- tion of this northern Alabama city. The rocket’s home is the U.S. Space and Rocket Center, a major tourist draw and one of the reasons the National Trust for His- toric Preservation named Huntsville one of its 2010 Dozen Dis- tinctive Destinations. But even though it’s nicknamed the Rocket City, both the National Trust and I realized
SPOTS 2010
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that Huntsville and the surrounding area (population about 400,000) is full of earthbound attractions of the non- NASA variety. Huntsville’s history stretches back to
far before the arrival of the space indus- try in the 1950s. A Revolutionary War veteran named John Hunt settled there in 1805 for the proximity to a spring, and within a matter of decades, the town had flourished enough for its residents to build an impressive array of mansions that you can ogle while taking a pleasant drive through the city’s three historic districts. Burritt on the Mountain, a regional
history museum with a lofty perch over- looking the city, is one grand home worth visiting. Rewind: Yes, there are mountains in Alabama. William Henry Burritt, a homeopathic
physician, built a mansion with a beauti- fully appointed interior on 167 acres in the late 1930s atop Monte Sano (“Moun- tain of Health”). He asked that it become amuseum after his death, and today the estate is home to about a dozen old buildings moved to the site from differ- ent parts of Alabama. There are also farm animals and a cheerful museum store. Perhaps Burritt’s greatest asset is its
setting. Picnic tables have been stra- tegically placed around the grounds. I parked myself at one to take in the view and the heavily perfumed air synony- mous with “South.” “They’re really surprised how beauti- ful it is,” Lynette Fairlamb, my genial guide at the mansion, said of people vis- iting Burritt and this corner of Alabama. I was ready to be surprised some
more. After tossing my bags in my hotel room, I made a beeline for downtown Huntsville, which also boasts some natu- ral beauty, not to mention a vast collec- tion of antebellum houses. Gleaming of- fice buildings, a large entertainment venue and the Huntsville Museum of Art are situated around water that’s part of Big Spring Park. (The next day I discov- ered an even more scenic pocket of the park a few blocks away, with cascading
BECKY KRYSTAL/THE WASHINGTON POST Water lilies fill the aquatic garden at the Huntsville Botanical Garden, a 120-acre contrast to the nearby space center. TENNESSEE 65 0 MILES 59 MISS. r ALABAMA 65 Mobile 10 Pensacola Gulf of Mexico SISI WEI/THE WASHINGTON POST
water and a steep rock wall.) Had it not been so hot, I would have
set up at a table on the patio outside Pane e Vino, the pizza spot on a lower level of the museum building. Instead, I settled for a table with a window view. Sufficiently gorged on an El Greco pie (the names of the pizzas pay homage to painters), I walked up to the art museum to take advantage of the extended eve- ning hours on Thursdays. I felt very ur- ban sophisticated. Though I’m more used to the scale of
the Smithsonian, I gladly accepted the more digestible size of the Huntsville Museum of Art, which is undergoing an expansion. Then I discovered that about half the galleries were closed for final preparations for exhibitions set to open a few days later.
10 FLORIDA 65 85 Montgomery GEORGIA 100 59 20 Birmingham Atlanta Chattanooga Huntsville
Still, my visit was not for naught. I en- joyed what I did see in the already open portion of the upcoming exhibit show- casing pieces by American women art- ists. I slowly worked my way through an- other gallery displaying jewelry by a lo- cal woman, Kathy Chan, that ranged in inspiration from insects to a tornado. I may or may not have squatted in front of multiple cases to line up my reflection with the baubles to “try on” some devas- tatingly gorgeous necklaces. I didn’t give too much thought to the
fact that the city seemed pretty quiet. It was, after all, a Thursday evening, and a hot one at that. While in search of break- fast the next morning near the court- house, I noticed it again, and even more so on Friday night. It’s been that way for a while now, said Sam Hathorn, who owns and operates a coffee-pizza-gelato shop called Sam and Greg’s with her husband — you guessed it — Greg. “Downtown went through a little of a
revival nine years ago,” she said. Then the recession hit, and businesses and restaurants closed, leaving behind nu- merous empty storefronts in the heart of the city. The quiet is a stark contrast to the bustle at the upscale outdoor mall a few miles away. Hathorn and her husband are push- ing to establish a pedestrian hub around the courthouse to create an even more appealing destination for businesses and visitors while maintaining what at- tracts people from larger cities. “We like our small-town feel,” Hathorn
said. I liked it, too. People were unfailingly friendly. A woman at the visitors center made sure that I got as many 20-percent- off coupons to area attractions as I need- ed (through the convention and visitors bureau Passport program). While I was
snacking beside my rental car in the parking lot at Burritt on the Mountain, another patron called out to ask whether I was okay, because he thought my bat- tery might have died. And when I ap- proached local resident Chris Barr at the Huntsville Botanical Garden to get his impression of the flowering oasis, I end- ed up being invited to the vegan picnic lunch he was about to tuck into with his wife, Valerie, and their friend Lidia Seda. It had been an oppressively hot and humid day, but not miserable enough to mitigate the joys of the garden. I ad- mired explosions of hydrangeas. I sniffed a bounty of rosemary, fingered burgeoning eggplant. Butterflies flitted by my head in their large screened-in house. The entire place — all 120 acres of it — was a study in contrasts with the towering rocket visible from the nearby space center.
Enough of the locals, particularly the children reveling in the fountains, seemed to have found their way to the garden. But it’s probably one of those area attractions that remains under the radar to the wider world. “It’s a pretty good secret,” Barr said. So is Huntsville in a lot of ways. I’m willing to share it.
krystalr@washpost.com
More Travel this week FRIDAY
Escapes blazes a trail of summertime activities in Canaan Valley, W.Va., in Weekend.
NEXT SUNDAY The Impulsive Traveler marks out what distinguishes Marquette, Mich., in Travel.
IF YOU GO
Want to take a spur-of-the-moment trip to Huntsville, Ala.? Here’s what you need to know for the weekend of June 25-27:
GETTING THERE AirTran flies nonstop from BWI Marshall to Huntsville International Airport with fares starting at $199 round trip.
WHERE TO STAY Hilton Garden Inn 4801 Governors House Dr. 256-430-1778
www.huntsvillespacecenter.hgi.com Easy access to the U.S. Space and Rocket Center and Huntsville Botanical Garden. Rooms from $99.
Westin Huntsville 6800 Governors West NW 256-428-2000
www.westin.com/huntsville Set in the Venetian-inspired Bridge Street Town Centre west of the city. Rooms from $149.
WHERE TO EAT Pane e Vino 300 Church St. SW 256-533-1180
www.paneevinopizzeria.com Pizzeria with a view of Big Spring Park and pies with crackling crusts. Pizzas from $9.
Sam & Greg’s 119 North Side Sq. 256-533-9030
www.samandgregs.com Pleasant downtown spot serving coffee, gelato and pizza. Pizzas from $5.25.
Humphrey’s Bar & Grill 101 Washington St. 256-704-5555
www.washingtonsq.com Grab a table on a patio reminiscent of New Orleans. Entrees and sandwiches from about $6.
WHAT TO DO
Burritt on the Mountain 3101 Burritt Dr. 256-536-2882
www.burrittonthemountain.com A living history museum with a beautiful mansion and grounds. $7.
Huntsville Museum of Art 300 Church St. SW 256-535-4350
www.hsvmuseum.org “Encounters: Kathy Chan” with an impressive jewelry collection, runs through Sept. 12. $7.
Huntsville Botanical Garden 4747 Bob Wallace Ave. SW 256-830-4447
www.hsvbg.org Don’t neglect to visit the seasonal butterfly habitat in the nature center. $10.
INFORMATION Huntsville/Madison County Convention & Visitors Bureau 500 Church St. NW 800-843-0468
www.huntsville.org
—B.K.
All flight and lodging information valid as of press time Thursday.
KLMNO
F5
Inns, Lodges & Villas MAINE
Spruce Point Inn Resort and Spa, Maine's premier seaside inn.
A Conde Nast "top 50 All American Getaway". 86 suites, lodges & cottages, spa & fitness center, bistro with live enter- tainment, pools, tennis, lighthouse camp, moorings, hiking trails, kayaks, bikes, botanical gardens and golf nearby. Pet friendly. Certified green resort.
www.sprucepointinn.com http://www.sprucepointinn.com
877 309 4481 MARYLAND
Cayman Suites Hotel, OCEAN CITY 50 spacious ocean block 1-Bedrooms, all equipped suites w/balconies. Glass enclosed pool. Beach chairs & towels. 2, 3, 4 & 5 night value packages. 1-410-250-7600
1-800-546-0042www.caymansuites.com
Chesapeake BayWaterfront St. Michaels,MD Harbourtowne Resort Romantic getaways w/waterfront room overlooking Chesa- peake Bay. Pete Dye Golf Course, Pool,Tennis, Free WiFi. Great packages! 800-227-1587
www.Harbourtowne.com
A Perfect
FamilyVacation! Deep Creek Lake,MD
Long & Foster Resort Rentals
20% off lakefront, lake access, moun- taintop homes, condos & townhomes*! Boating, swimming, summer fun for the entire family! Pet friendly! *Restrictions apply; participating rentals only.
800.336.7303
www.DeepCreekResort.com
Mountaineer? Avalanche? Buy an SUV. Sell a truck.
MARYLAND FIVE GABLES INN & SPA
ST. MICHAELS,MD Summer Packages!
Check website for last-minute specials! 1-877-466-0100
www.fivegables.com
Ocean City,MD Paradise Plaza Inn
9th Street & Oceanfront - EXCELLENT BOARDWALK LOCATION. Oceanview Rooms, Suites with Upscale Amenities - Dairy Queen - Sunsations. Book nowand save. SUMMER SIZZLER from $189.95 per night + tax. Room with balcony & partial view. Subject to availability. Valid thru 8/31/10. Check online for hot deals & specials.
www.paradiseplazainn.com 1-888-678-0544
OXFORDWATERFRONT Exquisite! Upper end, 3 BRs, 3 BAs. Fireplace. Pool, tennis court & dock. Availability weekly, weekends & holidays. 410-745-5255
NEWYORK
info or brochure call 800-724-3136 or visit
www.riversidetowerhotel.com
Singles $124. Suites $139-$159 Lincoln Center area, Hudson River views, 18 floors, kitchenette. 5 minutes to Mid- town, safe, quiet, luxury area. RIVERSIDE TOWER, Riverside & 80th St. For more
RIVERSIDETOWER HOTEL $129 for 2 persons
NORTH CAROLINA
SUMMER GETAWAY PACKAGE FROM $
399 540-687-4645 WWW.GOODSTONE.COM
Hilton Head Island
www.hhisland.info Plan a getaway with Seashore Vacations. Our beach is free. Specials available for golf, tennis, dining & more. There's shopping galore. Visit our site or call: 1-800-845-0077
N. MYRTLE BEACH 1,2 & 3BR oceanfront & ocean view condos, hi-spd internet, indoor & outdr pools, Jacuzzis, tennis, golf pkgs, beach club, more! Day/wk/mo. 1-800-345-5617
www.oceancreek.net
VIRGINIA
Allstar Lodging 100+ Cabins in Luray 90 miles from DC. 2 for 3 nights & canoes included at select cabins! Hot tubs, kitchens, decks. Priv. BRs on Shen. River. PETS OK! 1-866-780-7827
www.allstarloding.com
FUNNY FARM INN Open All Yr & Holidays! 75-acre horse farm. Pool. Hiking. Kids & pets okay. Brkfast. 1.25 hrs DC. Veggie garden for the guests!
540-547-3481www.bbonline.com/va/funnyfarm
PENNSYLVANIA
18 Hr Sensation! 10%Off with ad! 18th cent. estate. All included: Broadway show, lodging, dinner, wine & cheese, country brkfast. Allenberry Resort Inn & Playhouse!
www.allenberry.com 800-430-5468
SOUTH CAROLINA VIRGINIA
MIMSLYN INN SHENANDOAH VALLEY
June Dinner & Room Package for Two $149.
Mid-Week Summer Fun $115. Space Limited. 800-296-5105
www.mimslyninn.com
WINTERGREEN a year-round escape! Houses & condos. Daily, weekly & monthly. Great Rates! Activities for ALL ages! 1-888-788-0731
www.blueridgegetaways.com
WESTVIRGINIA
BAVARIAN INN Historic Shepherdstown, 1hr fr.Washington, D.C. AAA Four Diamond Inn
SpecialWeekday rate starting at $99/night
Rooms with Potomac River Views,
Whirlpool Baths. Fine German and Continental Dining. Wine Spectator Award.
Only 10 minutes from Charles Town Races & Slots, soon to be Hollywood Casino with Table Games coming in July!
www.bavarianinnwv.com
1-304-876-2551 for special rate mention promo "POST" "West Virginia Wild &Wonderful"
WESTVIRGINIA Golf Stay & Play from $180 p.p. Shepherdstown.
"... in 22 years this is the best complete package I've booked in 6 different states!" - a guest. The Cottage at Cress Creek. Unlimited golf at 2 champion courses, breakfast & lunch daily, lodging, more!
www.cresscreek.com 304-279-7185
GREENBRIER RIVER CABINS "The FrontYard is the Greenbrier River &
the BackYard is the Greenbrier River BikeTrail". 5 rustic modern cabins with all amenities. Large decks
& screened porches overlook the river. 1-800-CALL-WVA 304-653-4646 www.GreenbrierRiverCabins.Com West Virginia Wild andWonderful
SMOKE HOLE RIVERSIDE LOG CABINS Just 2½ hours from DC-Seneca Rocks. Honeymoon & family log cabins. Jacuzzi, fpl., full kitchen. Great hiking! Weekday special.
www.smokehole.com 800-828-8478
THEWOODS
Summer Getaway Package: Stay 2 nts, get 3rd night FREE! (Thru 8/31/10).
Walden or Evergreen Lodges. Consecutive nts. only, no holidays or holiday wknds). TheWoods is located 90 mi. fromDC&offers: Sleepy Creek Spa, Golf, Swimming, Dining, Hiking,Tennis&more!
www.TheWoods.com or 888-699-2221 CARIBBEAN
BARBADOS OCEANFRONT VILLA On Bluff...Overlooking Ocean!
4 bedrooms, 4 baths, a/c, 2 pools and private stairs to beach! Owner: 703-527-5154
ST.MAARTEN
www.beachsidevillas.com OCEANEDGE, upscale 1, 2, 3 BR
A/C Villas. Fully Equipped Kitchen, BBQ. Daily housekeeping, free WI-FI cable TV. Perfect vacation all year!
Call Owner Yolanda 313-884-7706 202-334-6200
GHI
washingtonpost.com CLASSIFIEDS
C304 A 6x1
If only you had home delivery.
1-800-753-POST SF COSTA RICA
TROPICAL PACIFIC COAST LUXURY 5 BR Dream villa with breathtaking Ocean views. Perfect for luxury vacations, weddings,& privacy. Secluded yet close to beach, restaurants,& town activities.
ww.casalumenez.com
ITALY
ITALY RENTALS 202-333-6247 Quality villas, farmhouses & apts. Also Rome, Florence, Venice apts. Personalized service from Italy specialists. Free catalogs. ITALIANVACATION VILLAS
www.villasitalia.com
ITALY VACATION RENTALS &TOURS For family & friends. Custom itineraries to top destinations! Choice rentals & farmhouses. Email:
info@restacumme.com or call 240-724-2504. See also
www.restacumme.com
Inns, Lodges
& Villas A year-round
advertising marketplace! 202-334-7003
1-800-627-1150
boucharda@washpost.com
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