(Continued from Page tk)


Restaurant & Crab House 3030 Old Riva RoadAnnapolis, MD 21140410-956-2784


Established 1958 www.mikescr abhouse .com CAFÉ ASSORTIBakery


ENJOY A CUP OF COFFEE WITH CAKES, PIES AND PASTRIES MADE FRESH DAILY


HOMEMADE EASTERN EUROPEAN CUISINE Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Bar


Phone: 703-465-0036 • www.cafeassorti.com 1800 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA


THAI COUNTRY COMFORT FOOD Try Our Weekend Thai Dim Sum Menu 11am-3:00pm


5892 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041 (703)671-4222


www.duangrats.com


THE ULTIMATE IN LEBANESE CUISINE


BACCHUS OF LEBANON 7945 Norfolk Avenue Bethesda, MD 301-657-1722


www.Bacchusofl ebanon.com


FAMOUS CARAMELS SINCE 1866 The Original


8408 Georgia Ave.


Silver Spring, MD 20910 301-578-8612 • velatis.com


S 301-5 (Continued from Page 27)


last item was among my favorites at Kushi. The conch was served in its tiny shell, its meat soft, pure and rich with shiso butter; the treasure was retrieved using a small bamboo fork. But first, brace yourself for lots


THAIPHOON Real Thai Cuisine


Dupont Circle


2011 S Street, NW, Washington, DC 20009 Tel: 202.667.3505 Fax: 202.667.8018


Pentagon Row Plaza


1301 S. Joyce Street, Arlington,VA 22202 Tel: 703.413.8200 Fax: 703.413.8868


Visit us at www.thaiphoon.com


ONLY FRENCH RESTAURANT OPEN SO LATE


’TIL 4 A.M. WEEKENDS All Major Credit Cards Accepted 3124-28 M STREET (202) 338-3830 GEORGETOWN


Thai Weekend Brunch M ning


Award Winnin re &


Signature tional


Traditio g


Dish ishes  h Menu www.duangrats.com ’TIL 3 A.M. WEEKDAYS


of choices to wade through. You’ll be handed four menus: One is a big sheet listing raw and grilled fish and meat, plus small plates. A second slip, a standing menu, lets you jot down requests for sushi and other dishes. A third menu highlights the daily specials. The last describes cocktails, and you might want some amid the flurry of papers you’ve been handed, which suggest an office meeting more than a social occasion. Allow me to cut to the chase and


share highlights of my meals, which I’ve enjoyed as much as a soloist at the counter as I have as part of a gang at a raised communal table. I’ve never met a piece of sushi here I


Fresh Jumbo Soft Shell


Lobsters & Seafood


5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041 (703)820-5775


haven’t liked. A vegetarian accomplice gave the kitchen a thumbs up for sesame-dressed green beans, Japanese


pickles, garlicky kimchi and grilled baby beets he and I both enjoyed. If I had my druthers, however, I’d focus most on the daily specials. That’s where some of the more intriguing cooked dishes beckon. Don’t miss the daily dashi custard, which might fit shrimp, shiitakes, favas and lightly crunchy scallop lip in a swirl of silken pleasure. Or the bowl of steamed clams, a still life of briny seafood scattered with leeks and swimming in a broth made with sake. Strong performances are almost


always team efforts; Kushi enjoys the support of a large and talented cast. Heading the sushi brigade are Yoshihisa Ota, recruited from the acclaimed Ginza Gakyu in Tokyo, and Munehiro Yonemoto, the former executive chef at the very good Raku in Bethesda. A veteran of Georgetown’s late Hisago and Japan Inn, Hironobu Higashijima, is among those behind the spark-throwing fire of the robata grill. Darren Norris sees himself as sort of a bridge, introducing the veteran chefs to such modern notions as sous


PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN


Featuring Toffee


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