Dynamic Vines B
Most of us understand and acknowledge the benefits of organically grown produce. Biodynamic farming however is rather more extreme and attracts scepticism and fanaticism in equal measure Words:Tom Harrow
ased on the teachings of New Age Philosopher Rudolph Steiner, the term biodynamic roughly translates from the
Greek, ‘working with life energies’. It requires following the lunar cycle in the vineyards to determine the timing of various activities. Such as planting, pruning, harvesting, and ultimately even drinking the resultant wines. It also uses special preparations such as flower heads, fermented in a stag’s bladder and buried in a cow horn, which is subsequently applied in a solution to the vines to increase productivity and soil health.
Clemens Busch Marienburg Riesling Kabinett 2016 Forget what you thought you knew about Riesling: Clemens was an early pioneer of organic viticulture in the Mosel back in the 1980s and has been farming biodyamically since 2005. He and wife Rita have gained
Biodynamic
roughly translates from the Greek, ‘working with life energies’
a cult following for their laser-sharp, richly textured and terroir-defined Rieslings which ferment using only natural yeasts and so the sweetness level varies according to the vintage. His Marienburg Kabinett, grown on steep, grey slate soils is always intense, zesty and herbal but with a long, succulent, creamy finish. This is a great lunch white alongside a picnic of soft cheeses, and lightly- smoked charcuterie and fish.
Familia Nin-Ortiz Planetes de Nin 2014 Another husband and wife team, Ester Nin and Carlos Ortiz, are making some of Spain’s most exciting wines from the hip region of Priorat in the Province of Tarragona. Their elevated vineyards, next to the hillside village of Porrera,
are north and east facing ensuring a freshness and acidity to balance the considerable weight of intensely ripe, spicy very old vine Garnacha and Carinena. These wines reek of terroir and ancient soils, with that heady musk that makes you think more of Etna or Barolo or even old Burgundy. Seared lamb chops on the plancha or a stew of rabbit or game birds would make a suitably flavoursome, rustic match.
If this all sounds terribly hokey, consider that an increasing number of the world’s greatest wine estates including Pontet Canet in Bordeaux, Domaine Romanée Conti and Leflaive in Burgundy and Chapoutier in the Rhone are staunch advocates. In any case it’s always best to let the wines speak for themselves and below are a handful of superb biodymanic wines that are well worth trying. There are some great examples from regions such as Norway (yes...) the Mosel region, Bordeaux and the Spanish coastal area of Tarragona. Below are our top recommendations to make up your own mind.
La Fleur de Haut Bages Liberal 2014 It’s not just in trendy areas and funky grapes that you find biodynamic winemaking. From Pauillac, in the heart of Bordeaux, with vineyards next to Chateau Latour, and sharing the plain with Lynch Bages, Haut Bages Liberal
flies slightly under the radar compared to its illustrious neighbours, and therefore offers brilliant value from the same terroir. La Fleur, the estate’s second wine, is still heavily Cabernet-focussed with 20% Merlot, and from fifteen year old vines, is showing really classy, complex fruit already. This is classic claret and a versatile partner for rich seafood dishes as well as grilled and roasted meats, or a contemplative glass on its own.
Johan Vineyards Estste Grüner Veltliner 2014 Keeping things Teutonic but moving to Oregon, we encounter a fascinating wine from Norwegian Dag Sunby. This citric, peppery white grape (like a spicier Sauvignon Blanc), grown in the cool climate Willamette Valley, is better known
in Austria but here, barrel-fermented and aged for ten months on its fine lees (yeasts) for ten months, achieves a creaminess and mid-palate richness that broadens its appeal. You get an awful lot of flavour here for a wine below 12% ABV. I enjoyed this recently with lemon, pepper and turmeric crusted salmon so don’t be put off by its light alcohol – this Grüner has the chops to match powerful, spicy flavours.
108 | SUMMER 2018 | ONBOARD
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