New world order


Ochota Barrels ‘The Fugazi Vineyard’ Grenache 2017, McLaren Vale, Southern Australia


Taras and Amber Ochota harvest single vineyard parcels across southern Australia and, with minimal intervention, draw out wines that are refined but intense, perfumed and crunchy, with sweet fruit and lots of herbaceous and herbal notes. Named after


a favourite American Punk band, The Fugazi is made from a parcel of old vine Grenache, two thirds of which are whole-bunch fermented after a long maceration (80 days). Bright acidity and plenty of cherries dominate the front palate with cloves, star anise and pine smoke pulling through on the juicy but fresh finish. This is definitely one for fans of Southern Rhone wines.


104 | AUTUMN 2018 | ONBOARD


Traditionally Old World wines were thought of as the elegant, sophisticated, terroir-influenced classics versus their riper-fruited, toastier-oaked, higher alcohol and sweetness carrying, more hedonistic New World cousins. It was a case of complexity versus


concentration. Now however the lines are increasingly blurred, consistently warmer summers in Europe giving richer fruit characters, and a new generation of winemakers in the Antipodes, Americas and South Africa intent on producing racier, fresher, more textured wines. Below are some of the best of the latter to look out for Words:Tom Harrow


Storm ‘Moya’ Pinot Noir 2015, Hem el-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa


After cutting his teeth making wines at the Western Cape’s most prestigious estates, Hannes Storm purchased a few hectares in the dramatic Hemel-en-Aarde Valley where he makes the country’s most thrilling and Burgundian


Pinot


Noirs, using not more than 30% new oak, only natural yeasts and no filtration. From a lofty vineyard, rich in decomposed granite, Moya offers a focussed nose of raspberry, redcurrant, rose petals and a distinct cinnamon note, giving way to a sappy red berry palate, spiked with pinches of black pepper and dried violets, carried on a wave of mineral intensity. Even the most diehard of Burgundy fanatics will be impressed.


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