The Screen Print Column
Going further...
Following on from last month’s article, Jason Chapman, director of operations at The Regency Group, New York, takes his advice one step further.
C
ombining puff ink with embossing on textiles is a power move in dimensional design.
You’re essentially layering physical texture (embossing) with visual and tactile volume (puff ink) to create rich, multi-sensory effects. Let’s dive into how to do this technically, creatively, and strategically.
Why combine puff ink and embossing? • Puff ink expands when heat-cured, adding soft, raised print elements.
• Embossing alters the fabric structure itself, creating a moulded or sculpted base.
• Together, they provide two levels of elevation: - The fabric is reshaped (embossing). - The ink expands above it (puff). This combo delivers a layered, tactile experience – great for logos, icons, patterns, or even abstract textures.
Technical breakdown: Process flow Option 1: Emboss first, then puff print. This is best for clean embossing lines and crisp puff overtop. 1) Emboss the fabric with a heat-press die (metal/silicone, raised design).
- Temperature: 138 to 160°C. - Pressure: High (40 to 60 psi). - Dwell time: 10 to 15 seconds.
- Fabric: Mid- to heavyweight cotton, fleece, neoprene, or thick jersey 2) Let fabric cool and rest. 3) Screen print puff ink over or near embossed areas. - Use 80 to 110 mesh for high deposition.
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4) Cure in a conveyor dryer at 160 to 165°C for 60 to 90 seconds.
But why this order? Well, puff ink is sensitive to pressure and heat. If embossed after printing, the puff will flatten. Option 2: Puff print inside an embossed frame. This is best for framed logos or raised boxes with texture inside. 1) Create an emboss die with a recessed cavity (a deboss- style emboss).
2) Emboss the fabric.
3) Align screen to print puff ink inside the sunken zone. 4) Cure puff ink normally. Use foam underlay in the press to balance pressure and avoid burning surrounding print areas. Advanced: Multi-level puff and emboss hybrid. This is best for high-end fashion or art pieces. 1) Design with layers in mind:
- Base layer: Embossed texture (e.g. circular rings, patterns, or monograms).
- Mid layer: Puff elements (text, small icons). - Top layer: Flat plastisol or metallic ink detailing. 2) Sequence: - Emboss. - Screen print puff ink (possibly using halftones to vary height). - Flash cure.
- Add highlight inks or foil as needed. - Full cure.
Tip: You can simulate a shadow effect by embossing a shape and offsetting puff ink just slightly. This creates a visually dynamic depth effect.
www.printwearandpromotion.co.uk
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