Supplements & functional ingredients
The booming collagen supplements market promises youthful skin and joint relief, but experts say results vary and further research is needed to confirm long-term benefits.
period of time. The 2020 study, for instance, may have been ‘randomised, triple-blind and placebo- controlled’, but there were only 36 participants altogether. What’s more, most of these studies were sponsored by industry, which could have biased their findings.
“It is important to be aware most studies were paid for by companies which produce oral collagen supplements,” he says. “All were performed in different ways using different products in different amounts with highly variable results, making them difficult to compare. While there are measurements showing improvement in multiple signs of skin ageing it is difficult to know how this translates into clinical practice.”
As for the claims that collagen may improve joint pain, these do have some scientific backing. One 2018 study involving 120 people gave half its subjects a placebo, and the other half 90 days of collagen. The collagen group experienced an impressive 43% reduction in joint pain and a 39% improvement in joint mobility, as well as a 40% increase in skin elasticity. There have also been studies looking at collagen for osteoarthritis, some of which have returned positive results. One of these, published in 2019, reviewed five placebo-controlled trials and concluded that ‘collagen is effective in improving [osteoarthritis] symptoms.’ However, a subsequent letter to the editor disputed these findings, remarking that all the trials included were small and that their results were ‘very heterogeneous’. Overall, the evidence base here is mixed, and it’s too early to conclude anything with any certainty.
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More than just hype
Pasiah points out that not all supplements are made alike. She advises consumers to choose high-quality hydrolysed supplements from a reputable brand, which are sustainably sourced and have been tested in clinical trials. This should be in conjunction with a solid skincare routine and a healthy lifestyle. “I would advise patients that individual results can vary and that while many people see benefits, the degree of improvement may differ based on factors like age, genetics, and overall health,” she adds. Kentley agrees that taking collagen supplements should not be a standalone approach. Rather, it could be used as part of a wider strategy for limiting collagen breakdown as we age. “This includes maintaining a healthy diet, avoiding sun exposure where possible and using sunscreen, not smoking, and considering use of an antioxidant and retinoid,” he says. He adds that most commercially available collagen supplements are derived from animal sources, often fish bones or scales, making them unsuitable for vegetarians or those with allergies. While there are vegan products on the market, consisting simply of the amino acids needed to make collagen, Kentley thinks the evidence for their effectiveness is much more limited.
Overall, it would be fair to say that the excitement around collagen is more than just empty hype. While it is unlikely collagen supplements are any kind of elixir, anecdotally a lot of people do find them helpful. And with a fast-growing range of products attracting a loyal customer base, the market is unlikely to die down any time soon. ●
Ingredients Insight /
www.ingredients-insight.com
Erhan Inga/
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