Food & beverage
A British style of Michelin
I
n the past 20 years, British food has become stylish. No longer associated with watery gravy, overcooked carrots and stodgy pies, the UK is now home to some of the globe’s best restaurants, serving a diverse range of fresh and exciting flavours. But, before the new millennium, there were far fewer Michelin-starred restaurants in the country, and those we did have tended to serve heavy French fare in a starched and stuffy setting.
While modern chefs still make use of classical techniques, there has been a marked shift to a more relaxed, welcoming way of dining in recent years – particularly within the self-contained worlds of hotels. These restaurants have formerly held reputations as being dreary last resorts for hungry, weary travellers; but now, many have become destination draws for discerning gastronomes. As the ultimate markers of
Hotel Management International /
www.hmi-online.com
excellence, Michelin stars have been the ambition of chefs for more than a century, and there has been a long history of the most luxurious hotels and the finest chefs forming partnerships to earn them. So, how have such establishments evolved to contend with the present-day desire for informality, while still creating a memorable experience?
Accessible sophistication
For Paul Leonard, the head chef at the Forest Side in Cumbria, an easy-going atmosphere makes for a more satisfying meal. “I think, back in the day, you’d sometimes feel a little on edge in a restaurant and you’d have to wait to leave to feel relaxed,” he says. “Here, I want people to feel comfortable when they walk in, because if people are enjoying themselves, they’re going to enjoy the food.”
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Appreciation of British cuisine has changed drastically over the years, especially in the UK’s Michelin-starred restaurants. Brooke Theis speaks to Steve Smith at The Latymer in Surrey and Paul Leonard at The Forest Side in Cumbria, about the evolution of Michelin-starred hotel restaurants in the UK and what changing appetites spell for the future of the hospitality industry.
The Forest Side
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