TIME OUT IN... Copenhagen
Tower Bridge. It’s an impressive piece of engineering that’s taken four years to build. The Inner Harbour Bridge has vastly
Copenhagen, Denmark
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improved access between the northwestern side of the harbour, where classic attractions like the Rosenborg Castle and the world-famous Little Mermaid statue sit, and the southeastern side of the city, where you can find more modern delights like the Copenhagen Opera House (
kglteater.dk/ en). This huge slab of concrete and glass, designed by Henning Larsen, is part of the plan to transform the old docks into an upmarket area, which is now seeing the rise of new apartment blocks too. For a complete change of scene you should head a few blocks south of the Opera House to Christiania, a place where it will forever be the mid-1970s. This commune is a stark example of what Scandinavia used to represent before it rebranded as a cool, cultural and dining destination. It was all a bit hippy, and Christiania remains so to this day. Interesting bricolage houses bodged together with the help of a community building scheme dot the area, and the ubiquitous Christiania tricycle is everywhere, its front box containing kids or shopping. This trike is Christiania’s most famous export, but its most famous import can be seen on the eyebrow-raising Pusher Street, where weed is openly sold and photos must definitely not be taken on your iPhone.
FORAGING VS HEDONISM For many, however, the socialist version of Copenhagen is just a memory. Today’s city is about conspicuous consumption and indulgence at top-end restaurants. Noma (
noma.dk) put the city’s food scene on the international map with its foraged, local ingredients. Noma has closed temporarily – its team have relocated to Sydney for the first quarter of 2016 – but they will be returning to open a new Noma in Copenhagen later in the year. For now, young pretenders like Radio
are taking up the mantle. Radio is the brainchild of Jesper Kirketerp, a former Noma sous-chef who has won many plaudits for his new venture. A five-course tasting menu costs Kr400 (US$57), and what’s on it depends on the whims of the chefs and what they find at the market, or while out foraging. They experiment
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freely, so while a menu item labelled “scallops/cabbage/mead” might sound underwhelming, the end result is anything but (Julius Thomsens Gade 12; tel +45 2510 2733;
restaurantradio.dk; open Tue-Sat 5pm-midnight, lunch Fri and Sat noon-3pm). As well as restaurants, hotels in Copenhagen have upped their game, using high-end interior design and eye-popping architecture to achieve this. Three of the latest new-breed Copenhagen hotels all subscribe to this idea in different ways. Arp-Hansen Hotel Group’s latest venture, the Tivoli Hotel, is an impressive Jenga stack of a building on Arni Magnussons Gade 2 that flung its doors open in July 2015. It’s a modern business and leisure hotel with luxurious décor (tivolihotel. com; doubles in mid-February from Kr1,200/US$170 per night). Across town at Sankt Peders Straede is SP34, one of Copenhagen’s swankiest new boutique hotels. Located in the bohemian Latin Quarter, SP34 is a series of townhouses knocked together to form a wildly exuberant little bolthole with cute rooms. It attracts all kinds of hipsters – locals and visitors alike – to its tapas and wine bar restaurant, Work in Progress. What’s more, the hotel offers all residents a free glass of
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