DE ST INAT IONS


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“Since the 19th century, American


artists, from the amateur to the avant-garde, have been drawn to Provincetown as a site of inspiration,” says Christine McCarthy, executive director of the Provincetown Art Association and Museum. “Te reasons for that are many and complex, however the lure of the sea and the desire to experience its natural beauty are certainly at the forefront. “Tis spit of land serves as a haven


for all that is creative and unique, spiking at 100,000 visitors in the summer months, which drops to 3,000 year-round residents during the off season. For those who are lucky enough to call Provincetown home, the off season is magical.” Magical indeed. My first visit was 20 years ago, with a new American girlfriend who wanted to show me her childhood holiday spots. I was bowled over by the beauty of the historic


NOVEMB ER 2018


Cape buildings, the dazzling beaches and the chumminess of the locals. We returned the following year. I was introduced to her family. Eventually, we married. We’ve been going there nearly every year since – most recently with my extended US family – each season exploring something new: the seafood, the craſt brewery bars, the cycle tracks, the secluded walks, the islands. We’ve researched buying a home and moving there, and we may do yet. Te winters might be tough, but the summers are long and idyllic, making the Cape hard to resist.


MODERNISM & BEACH HOMES Provincetown might be a tourist honeypot during the summer, but its hinterland is still remarkably unspoilt. Te Outer Cape, as this furthest reach is called, began attracting summer visitors for its isolation and wild beauty during the


For the most impressive historical buildings of all, take the day ferry to the neighbouring island of Nantucket


1930s. Momentum grew as Boston bohemians bought land cheaply during the Depression years, and fixed up shacks as


summer homes. Ten things took a rather


different direction in the summer of 1937, when Walter Gropius, founder


of Bauhaus and then a recently appointed professor at Harvard


University near Boston, stayed on the Cape and hosted a reunion of European émigrés who had fled the Tird Reich; he started a trend. Tis community returned for summer holidays. Tese modernist architects and artists began building holiday homes on the shores around Wellfleet, while building was relatively unrestricted. Some of these homes have been acquired and carefully


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