DE ST INAT IONS


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lengthy spit of sand and hollows jutting into the Atlantic, Cape Cod has long been a place of ebb and flow. Te landscape itself


seems transient, the shores of breezy dunes and freshwater kettle ponds constantly shiſting their boundaries. Created from piles of glacial moraine as the last ice sheet receded, its days are numbered; it now has less than 5,000 years to go before the ocean consumes it. But right now, it’s New England’s holiday destination for visitors of all stripes: non-stop partying weekenders from Boston and New York, beachcombing families from New England, and plutocrats and presidents who jet in from Washington to their compounds – a tradition begun by the Kennedys. Cape Cod and its two islands – Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket – is a place where you come to meet people, but also to escape; to eat the seaside dishes our grandparents ate, but also to push out the boat with some cutting-edge cuisine. Most striking of all, though, is the


BELOW: Terrace suite at Noi Vitacura, Santiago; roof terrace at Hotel Magnolia, Santiago


The Outer Cape began attracting summer visitors for its isolation and wild beauty during the 1930s


light and the scenery; mile aſter mile of white sand beaches, backed by the bleached-bone white of clapboard houses and weathered cedar shingles. Eventually you get to Provincetown at the very tip, where the Mayflower first landed before moving on and leaving it for the Nauset Indians. Te European settlement of the Upper Cape came much later.


NOVEMB ER 2018


ABOVE: Stars and Stripes decorate a shingle house in Provincetown, Cape Cod, which was the site of the Mayflower’s landing in 1620


GETTING THERE AND AROUND


Boston’s Logan airport is the best arrival point. There are hourly buses to Hyannis, transport hub of the Mid Cape, and a good express ferry running to Provincetown. To get to the two main islands, the Steamship Authority runs regular ferry trips for foot passengers from several ports; cars must be booked in advance. The simplest and best way to explore the Cape is by car; it’s a two-


hour drive from Logan airport to the port of Hyannis, three or more to Provincetown. Hertz has an airport branch with very fast pick-up and returns when you sign up for the (free) Gold Plus membership. One week’s hire via hertz.co.uk costs from around US$393 (£287).


→ busine s s tr a v eller .com


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