Nautical Research Journal 277


8. Truing the frames. one inch narrower, and fi x it underneath. (Figure 2C)


For access to the inside of the hull (to clean up the frames or insert keelson, clamps or deck beams), it is useful to be able to turn the assembly upside down, so my next addition was to put end plates on the baseboard extending to about one inch above the line of the keel. T ese are removable so are best screwed to the rectangular base stiff ener. As you will need to refi t them later, and accurate repositioning is important, complement the screws with a couple of dowel pins. Scribe the centerline, accurately vertical, up both end plates. (Figure 2D) Cut a short slit with a razor saw into the top of the plates on the centerline.


Following Hahn, prepare the keel, stem and sternpost assembly, and a few square frames; preferably those closest to bow and stern and one or two midships. Slot these frames into the appropriate cut-outs in the baseboard, ensuring they are vertical and lie at the correct height relative to the reference plane, but do not glue them at this stage. If they will not stay in place, secure them with a couple of small wedges.


Lay the keel assembly into the frames and stretch a length of black cotton between the slits in the top of the end plates. (Figure 3) By sighting straight down from the cotton to the centerline on the baseboard,


9. Marking the run of the wales (note that the keel has still not been fi tted).


any misalignment of the keel caused by the frames not sitting exactly symmetrically becomes immediately obvious. (Figures 4 & 5) T e reason for the razor saw slots is now clear; most of the time the cotton gets in the way and constantly is dislodged. T e slots allow fi tting and removing it quickly.


Remove the keel, fi x these fi rst frames to the baseboard and then install the remainder of the square frames. Use the keel, or a suitable piece of straight wood, to ensure that each frame is aligned before fi xing.


T e order in which the next set of operations is done (fi tting the cant frames, building the transom, fi tting


10. Fitting out the interior with the building board inverted (note that in this case blockboard was used, so there was no need for the rectan- gular stiff ener)


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