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Nautical Research Journal


handy 120-degree angle reference. I do not have an off set chuck or index tool, so I clamped the hub in the tool post and mounted that on my vertical slide. T is let me set the correct angle to cut 1/16-inch- wide slots for the blades. A witness mark on the tool post allowed the hub to be rotated to line up the start of each slot. (Figure 136) T e aſt end of the hub is a cowl fastened with eight bolts to the propeller that covers the nut holding it to the shaſt , as can be seen in the Sackville picture. I marked locations onto the hub and used the set-up in Figure 137 to make the bolt recesses using a 1/8-inch cutter.


T e three blades were made by cutting blanks from 1/16-inch thick brass strip. T e shape was outlined onto one of the blanks from the plans, then the three blanks were riveted together with pieces of #14


copper wire. T is allowed them to be cut out and edge fi nished together, ensuring all three were identical. (Figure 138) Each blade was twisted by clamping the root in the vise and turning the tip with pliers, then the faces were fi led to a hydrofoil shape. I used Mr. Mowll’s hose-clamp technique to hold the blades to the hub while soldering. (Figure 139) T e assembly was placed in the vise, aligned, then soſt soldered using a plumber’s torch as the heat source. (Figure 140) T e propeller was cleaned up aſt er cooling with fi ne fi les and emery cloth. (Figure 141) Corvette propellers were bronze, and I used a commercial company to bronze mine. T e fi nal step was gluing copper-painted scale styrene bolts to the cowl.


267


138. Cutting out the three blades. Note the copper wire rivets holding the blanks together.


139. T e propeller assembled with hose clamps to maintain blade alignment during soldering.


140. T e propeller immediately aſt er soldering. Fat fi llets are necessary for fi nal shaping; apply plenty of fl ux before heating.


141. T e fi nished propeller ready for bronzing.


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