Nautical Research Journal 203


17. On the right, a selection of spring-loaded clothespins of diff erent sizes and variously altered. On the leſt is a standard pin, disassembled and reassemble in the reversed, deep-throated mode.


area. Shim each end of a sanding block, about four or fi ve inches long with 1/32-inch card or wood scrap and masking tape. With the bare edge of the sanding block running against the stop cut, the remaining wood in the scarf area can be removed to the proper depth. (Figure 19)


Off er the end of a second piece of planking stock to the stop cut. Turn over both pieces together and hold them against a straight edge. With the end of the fi rst piece as a guide, make a stop cut on this side of the second piece. Remove chips and wood as before. Apply glue to the scarf area and weight the joint while both pieces are held against a straight edge. (Figure 20) When planking, scarfs should be placed opposite each other, from side to side of the hull. Try to keep them in areas with the least curvature and stress.


Preparation of stem and stern pieces


To avoid the complex process of cutting a rabbet in the stem and stern, along with double bevels, gains or shiplaps as in most boats, the bateau simply lets the plank in to the heavy timbers at bow and stern. T e lower edge of the next plank then covers this simple fl ush joint. T is process does produce a very slight twist of the plank at bow and stern. In some boats the twist in the garboard, or fi rst strake, can be very great. In the classic American whaleboat, for example, this twist from midship to bow in the garboard strake is nearly 90 degrees.


Using measurements from the table of off sets, mark the outboard edge of the stem and stern pieces to indicate the top of each plank. T is should be done on both sides of the stem and stern pieces. When the plank is properly fi tted, and not before, 1/16-inch notches will be cut across the outboard face of the


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