Warsaw


blocks, jewelry shops and traditional restaurants, and admiring the main square, Rynek Starego Miasta. T is is the Old Town’s calling card; at its heart stands a modest bronze statue of a mermaid, the symbol of Warsaw, while around the edge are umbrella-sheltered cafe tables and colorful buildings that display fl ourishes of a variety of architectural styles, from Renaissance and Gothic to Baroque. I remember my surprise when, as a teen,


I was told by my mother that none of these buildings are actually original. After the destruction of the war, the Poles had wanted to return their decimated capital city to its former glory, and spent more than a decade doing so, working from photos and drawings to revive the ruined 18th- and 19th-century structures — in many cases using the original bricks where possible. T eir eff orts were rewarded and this part of town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980. Among the most impressive works of


reconstruction is the Royal Castle — a red- brick beauty which totally dominates Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square). You could spend a good couple of hours exploring its lavish interiors, but I decide instead to head for another regal delight. A short bus journey takes me along


what’s known as Trakt Krolewski (the Royal Route), past the Presidential Palace and down the stylish street of Nowy Swiat, to my destination: Lazienki Park. Once a playground for nobility, Lazienki is awash with manicured gardens, follies and water features, along with a few wandering peacocks. At its heart, on an artifi cial island that divides the ornamental lake in two, is the Palace on the Isle. It was originally built as a bathhouse for a 17th- century Polish count, and later transformed into a museum of the royal family’s extensive collection of European art. Following a recent three-year renovation,


it’s still used as a gallery, but its interiors are arguably as much of an attraction as what’s on display. T ere’s the room clad in intricate 17th-century Dutch blue tiles, the hall covered in frescoes depicting the biblical history of Solomon, the ballroom, with its neo-classical columns and statues, and much more. I’ve been visiting Lazienki as long as I can


remember, but I’ve never taken the time to explore the surrounding area, so when Iza suggests another unusual historical attraction nearby, I’m intrigued. Slightly to the north of the park, in Osiedle Jazdow, it suddenly feels like we’ve been transported out of the capital and into the countryside; the roads ▶


From top: The Royal Castle; Mermaid of Warsaw statue


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