IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY


Departures


Eat


Dulce Patria: Martha Ortiz is the innovative female chef at the helm of Dulce Patria (Sweet Homeland), a member of Top 50 Restaurants. Set in the flashy Polanco shopping district, inside understated elegant boutique hotel Las Alcobas this is the place to dine on traditional Mexican with a decidedly colorful modern edge — in a equally baroque setting (gold walls, rose pink floor). Daughter of celebrated Mexican painter and food writer Martha Chapas, Ortiz has an arty flair for “simple” home cooking. dulcepatriamexico.com


Contramar: Visitors to Contramar who order the signature raw tuna toastada inevitably won’t want to leave. The bar of this bustling, high-ceiling seafood landmark affords the best view of the well-heeled crowd and kitsch marine murals. Patrons rarely leave hungry, but if they do, outside on Calle Durango great street food abounds, including stands selling an array of palate-punching beef and pork tacos, gorditas (shallow- fried, stuffed cornmeal patties), and somewhat more challenging menudo (tripe) soups. contramar.com.mx


Los Danzantes: A stone’s throw from the Frida Kahlo museum, Los Danzantes is the place to kick back and enjoy the villagey vibes of Coyoacán, a former rural outpost of the city. A patio seat opposite the fountain-sprinkled plaza is the best spot (sitting towards the interior to better appreciate the well-meaning if vociferous buskers touring the square), where black-clad waiters will deliver an extensive mezcal menu — the house-distilled brand a leading Mexican label. While classic dishes include hoja santa (a quesadilla of sorts using hoja santa leaves rather than tortillas), stuffed with Oaxacan string cheese, and goats cheese; all manner of moles; and wickedly indulgent cheese and chocolate desserts. losdanzantes.com ▶


ASTAnetwork | Fall 2017 | 109


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