IMAGES: TIMBER COVE RESORT; FOURSMEDIA; GETTY
CALIFORNIA
VINEYARDS TO VISIT
The Donum Estate This luxurious, organic-certified winery is located in the fertile Carneros AVA, where a Mediterranean climate nurtures its vines. In addition to grapes, the estate grows organic lavender, olives and plums. Spread across 200 acres, the grounds feature an impressive outdoor sculpture collection, including works by Keith Haring and Jaume Plensa. Book the 60-minute Carneros Experience ($100 (£75) per person) to sip Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while strolling among the vines.
thedonumestate.com
Ferrari-Carano Winery Set among the vineyard- studded hills of the ironically named Dry Creek Valley, the Ferrari-Carano Winery uses certified sustainable farming practices in its production of grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon. The blush-pink, Italian-inspired mansion is surrounded by thick precision-cut hedges and cooling fountains. Book or just turn up for the Classic Wine Tasting ($40 (£30) per person) for a selection of local artisan cheeses, meats, crackers, nuts and honey to complement the wines and a flight of four wines.
ferrari-carano.com
Flowers Vineyards & Winery Framed by the lofty redwoods that define the region, this design-led estate produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay using 100% native fermentation. Its timber buildings have floor- to-ceiling windows that look out onto the wildflowers that gave the estate its name. Book the 90-minute Estate Vineyard Immersion ($130 (£95) per person), pairing a selection of wines with small bites on plant- lined patios at the charming House of Flowers.
flowerswinery.com
a sensory, botanical-themed overload, from fern- patterned wallpaper to ‘garden to glass’ cocktails like Pick Your Poison, made with a spirit of your choice, clarified watermelon and a delicate sprig of lemon verbena. Wines are local —naturally — and I end the evening with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Dry Creek Vineyard in Healdsburg, just 30 minutes away, before heading back to my hotel. Channelling the county’s laid-back vibe, The
Lodge at Bodega Bay is all about understated luxury. Perched on a bluff overlooking Doran Beach, a 20-minute drive from Sebastopol, it promises soothing views of soft sand dunes, wildlife-rich marshes and the sweeping curve of the bay. The hotel’s design complements the landscape, with low, shingled buildings fringed by wildflowers, while inside, rooms feel more like apartments, with wood-burning fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling windows. Some guests are lucky enough to spot whales from their beds. As for me, soaking in a hot tub overlooking the tidal pools, with a glass of Russian River Valley wine in hand, feels like the perfect way to end the day.
Foraging & flamework Inspired by the menus celebrating Sonoma’s superb local produce, I set out to forage in the surrounding countryside the following morning. Nearby, Timber Cove Resort — a 1960s lodge-turned- design-hotel perched above a rugged stretch of the Pacific in Jenner — hosts culinary experiences led by Alexander ‘Ty’ Kun, who champions the estate’s connection to the land. I find him waiting in a densely forested part of
Salt Point State Park, a woodland of Douglas firs and towering redwoods that’s the only park in Sonoma County where mushroom collecting for personal use is allowed without a permit. Alex was first enchanted by the region when
he visited as a child, and went on to study the area’s naturally growing produce, enhancing his knowledge and finally settling here as an adult. Now, he spends his days doing what he loves most: foraging out on the land. “Sonoma is one of the most dynamic bioregions
in the world,” he says with a smile. “I’m blessed to be able to forage throughout the whole year. Here, you can find everything from berries and flora to fungi and seaweed — wild ingredients that have
fed people for generations. It’s not just healthy and sustainable; it’s a way of reconnecting with nature.” As we tramp across the soft forest floor, the air
is damp from the nearby ocean and a comforting, earthy smell rises from the soil. We pick green ferns that taste like asparagus and clumps of wild garlic, far sweeter and less punchy than its mass-produced cousin, but with a lovely, lingering kick. We pause to study poisonous red-capped russula
mushrooms, before munching on creamy white, peppery chanterelles. Alex will sell the nutty black trumpet mushrooms to chefs in top local restaurants. “They’re often called the poor man’s truffle,” he says, “but they feature on lots of local menus across the county.” I leave Alex beneath the trees to drive to my final
stop: Dickinson Glass Studio and Showroom, run by local glass artist and designer, Michael Dickinson. Inspired by his parents’ commercial glass business in California, Michael set-up his own converted- barn studio, where he hosts workshops and crafts Venetian-style wine glasses and Champagne flutes. “Working with molten glass is a conversation
between fire and form,” he explains, gazing out across the rolling hills and vineyards surrounding his studio. “It’s about bringing a material to life and exploring its capabilities.” Fashioning a wine stopper is a fitting
first-timer’s project. This isn’t glassblowing but flamework, using a school-style Bunsen burner, propane and an oxygen torch. Starting with a slender glass rod, I hold it in the heat, turning it repeatedly to shape the molten glass. My excitement builds as it transforms, the tip slowly rounding until it resembles a glowing, golden orb. Once I’m satisfied with my creation, the ever- patient Michael carefully fires it in the kiln. My wine stopper is far from perfect, but it’s
still gratifying to make something that’s so representative of the county. Just like the wines, this is a natural product with a true sense of place, rooted in the land and reflective of Sonoma.
HOW TO DO IT: British Airways flies daily from Heathrow to San Francisco.
ba.com The Lodge at Bodega Bay has rooms from $399 (£295) per night.
lodgeatbodegabay.com A three-hour foraging excursion starts from $150 (£110) per person.
sonomacounty.com A two-hour glass workshop costs $95 (£70) per person.
dickinsonglass.com
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – LUXURY COLLECTION 61
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