IMAGES: GETTY; ALEJANDRA HAUSER; SEATREK SAIL ADVENTURES


come to study and document the reef since 1973. Staff tell me that Sir David Attenborough — who first visited the island in 1957 and has made several return trips, including one to film parts of wildlife documentary series Blue Planet II — said this was his favourite place on Earth. I find out exactly why over the next three days. I dive with potato cod, spot giant clams and turtles and watch dolphins breach the surface of the water from an empty beach teeming with lizards and backed by swaying palms. This is an island that truly feels like paradise. As I fly back to Cairns in a tiny propeller plane — the only way


in or out of Lizard Island other than by private boat — I begin to grasp the true scale of the Great Barrier Reef. From up here, it’s mind-bogglingly vast, but also heartbreaking and beautiful. A wave of sadness rises at the thought of it disappearing. Even with the cooler, more resilient waters of the Ribbon Reefs, scientists warn the Great Barrier Reef is struggling to cope with rising ocean temperatures and may soon reach a tipping point. But for Mel and the other Master Reef Guides I met aboard


Spirit of Freedom, there’s still hope for the world’s largest reef system — as long as we continue to flight for it. “Yes, parts of the Great Barrier Reef are struggling, but it’s still


a living, breathing coral reef,” says Mel. “The best thing you can do to save it is to see it for yourself.” JV


HOW TO DO IT: Spirit of Freedom offers three-, four- and seven-night liveaboard dive trips on the Great Barrier Reef departing from Cairns. Cabins start from A$2,679 (£1,286) for a standard twin or double on a three-night trip, including meals and snacks. Full equipment hire is available at an extra cost. Standard doubles at Lizard Island start from A$2,516 (£1,208) a night (two-night minimum stay), including all meals. spiritoffreedom.com.au lizardisland.com.au


From left: You can spot six of the world’s seven species of turtle in the Great Barrier Reef, including the endangered hawksbill turtle; Master Reef Guides help visitors better understand and protect the reef;


Mexico City’s Coyoacán neighbourhood is renowned for its cobblestone streets and colourful facades; nutmeg is still harvested by hand on Indonesia’s Spice Islands


DID YOU KNOW? STRETCHING ALMOST 1,500 MILES, THE GREAT BARRIER REEF IS SO VAST THAT ONLY 20% IS CURRENTLY SURVEYED. THE MARINE PARK AUTHORITY RELIES ON TOURISM, WHICH GENERATES MORE THAN £6M ANNUALLY FOR REEF CONSERVATION


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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL


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