IMAGES: TRAVIS WATTS; ALAMY; GETTY
CALIFORNIA
facades and artisanal shops whisper of a simpler, slower-paced era. Everywhere you turn, farm-fresh produce takes centre stage, from local markets to menus that celebrate the season. Yet beneath this idyllic surface, Sonoma County has been quietly shaping California’s wine story for over a decade, embracing sustainable practices and a sense of terroir that rivals its more famous neighbour, Napa. In fact, some say it was here, in these rolling hills and fertile valleys, that the Golden State’s wine heritage first took root in the 19th century. The Russian River Valley, which lies between
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Sebastopol and Santa Rosa in the south, is teeming with wine producers. The colourful personalities behind these independent businesses craft cool-climate wines that showcase the region’s diverse terroir — particularly in standout expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “We know from experience that organic farming
methods give us more expressive grapes, higher quality wines and are better for the environment,” says Suzanne Hagins, who opened her family- owned Horse & Plow winery and cider house in 2008. The business produces several thousand bottles of organic wine and cider every year. Tasting room associate Cody Sikora chats as
he pours: “The fact we only use certified organic grapes in our wine and locally grown apples in our cider mirrors what the Sonoma County locals want: natural products with a real sense of place.” Even the venue feels unmistakably ‘Sonoma’
— good looking in a less flashy way than lots of traditional wineries. A rustic, dark timber barn has a long redwood bar complete with a turntable and a stack of vinyl, while the tasting room is painted a rich, ruby red. Outside, there’s plenty of spaces to sit in the sun, including a vegetable garden, orchard and even a wooded area for forest bathing should the wine make one feel inclined to meditate among the trees. Visitors can choose from a flight of four ciders, a
mix of red and white wines — or indeed both. I start by sipping a peachy Chardonnay and a Cabernet
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n hour north of San Francisco, Sonoma’s storybook landscape unfurls: mist-draped valleys, sun-dappled meadows and miles of Pacific coastline. Quaint towns with historic
Sauvignon aged in French oak barrels, both made from grapes grown in the Viluko Vineyard of the Mayacamas Mountains, a row of rugged volcanic peaks that forms a natural boundary between Sonoma and Napa Valley. Cider’s up next, and I’m suprised by the
similarity to sparkling wine as I sample Gravenstein, a naturally bubbly variety made from a local apple of the same name. It smells refreshing and tart with a crisp, clean tang. I’m a happy convert, enjoying it with salami, nuts and olives that enhance its flavour, content with my discovery that cider this delicate is a great alternative to more expensive Champagne.
Hippie hangouts & ocean views Feeling enlightened and a little tipsy, I spend the afternoon exploring downtown Sebastopol, once a ‘hippie’ town that’s evolved into a vibrant cultural hub in central Sonoma. Spanning 12 acres on the town’s eastern edge, The Barlow is a dynamic mixed-use market district where boutiques, breweries and restaurants occupy converted industrial barns adorned with fairy lights. It’s a colourful community of local artisans,
all inspired by the county’s abundant organic landscape. With more than 40 units to explore, choosing where to start feels overwhelming, but a charming, leafy entrance draws me into Pax Winery & Tasting Room. Inside, artfully arranged vases of wildflowers adorn the wooden bar, where a bearded bartender pours me a glass of Grenache Mourvèdre. This earthy, garnet-red wine comes from Radiant Ridge Vineyard, known for its distinctive Syrah and Mourvèdre blend. My head is subsequently turned by Region, an
elegant establishment with sleek self-serve stations and communal tables. The producers featured here are almost exclusively from Sonoma County; their wines best tasted alongside dishes with an array of local goodies, including farmers’ market salad with organic winter lettuce, toasted almonds, apple- lemon vinaigrette and orange blossom honey. Nearby, Fern Bar lives up to its name. This
retro-inspired space is filled with plants that stretch towards the high ceilings, while edible flowers — from colourful asters to pea blossoms and violets sourced from a local farm — decorate craft cocktails and seasonal dishes. Walking in is
FOUR FOODS TO TRY
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Gravenstein apples Locally known as ‘Gravs’,
these sweet, tangy apples are a Sonoma staple. Sample them in the double-crust pie at Mom’s Apple Pie in Sebastopol.
Dungeness crab Pulled straight from the
Pacific, Dungeness crab is a Sonoma must-try. At Spud Point Crab Company on Bodega Bay, Tony transforms his daily haul into buttery crab cakes — best eaten dockside with sea views.
Oysters Chef sisters Aluxar and
Jazmine Lalicker of The Shuckery, in Hotel Petaluma, transform ordinary oysters with a topping made from brandy, mayonnaise and parmesan.
Green olives As wine season winds
down, olive season kicks into gear. The green Italian varieties shine best when sampled straight from the vineyards where they’re grown, like Baker Lane in Sebastopol.
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