8 New Year, New You Health, Fitness & Beauty Green myths


Three beauty industry experts reveal why shopping sustainably isn’t all about recycling. Words: Layla Turner


I


f you’re anything like me, you apply numerous products to your face and body in any given week. From skincare to


makeup, beauty is often an integral part of our daily routines — but with increasingly scathing reports of plastic pollution and the impact of overconsumption, will what we choose to use start to change? It seems so. A recent study by


NielsenlQ (NIQ) found that 55% of UK consumers try to make more sustainable choices where possible, and beauty buffs far and wide are beginning to take a closer look at the products they know and love. In fact, results from the same study


revealed that 77% of consumers will stop buying from a brand if it’s suspected of ‘greenwashing’ (when a company spends more time marketing itself as sustainable than actually taking steps to reduce its impact). But how can we be sure what’s genuine and what isn’t when it comes to sustainable claims in beauty? We speak to three experts to find out more.


Brands are constantly pushed by buyers for more new products PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY


Don’t be fooled by pretty pictures “In the past, brands have been guilty of misleading consumers through messaging and packaging — for example, using flowers, plants, green colours and terms like ‘free from’ to trick customers into thinking a brand is sustainable,” explains Janet Milner- Walker, founder of beauty brand consultancy Bespoke Advantage. In fact, a truly sustainable beauty brand will consider factors such as packaging materials, and how it ships its products and ingredients in a way that might not be obvious to consumers. Te first step to sustainable beauty, Janet tells me, is simply making more


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conscious purchasing habits — ask yourself, do I really need this? If you already have five nude lipsticks at home, it’s unlikely you need to add another to your collection.


Recycling might not be enough According to cosmetic chemist and social media creator Allison Turquoise, merely switching to a product that boasts recyclable packaging isn’t enough. “Contrary to common belief, recycling proves to be an insufficient sustainable strategy. In the UK, a mere 12% of plastic packaging is successfully recycled,” she tells me. Allison also explains that discourse


needs to expand from a singular focus on sustainable packaging to embracing sustainable consumption. “Te success of initiatives like refillable packaging are entirely based upon consumer behaviour. A customer will need to purchase a refill at least four or five times before any sustainability benefits manifest, otherwise refillable packaging often uses more material and generates more carbon emissions than single use packaging,” she explains. For consumers who want to go that


extra mile, Allison advises to look for brands that are actively taking steps to improve the sustainability of their products. “La Roche Posay is a great example of this. It utilises lightweight design techniques for products such as the Lipikar Baume Tube, which resulted in this tube, in particular, using 45% less plastic than industry standard tubes,” Allison explains. Te product packaging uses 45% cartonboard from sustainable forests, and as a result is brown in colour rather than the industry standard white. Another of Allison’s firm


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A customer will


need to purchase a refill at least four


or five times before any sustainability benefits manifest,


otherwise refillable packaging often


uses more material and generates more


carbon emissions than single use packaging


favourites is beauty brand Stratia, which recently conducted a complete life-cycle analysis of its products before implementing further sustainability measures.


Don’t over buy Sian Sutherland, co-founder of A Plastic Planet — a brand tackling the plastic crisis — says the best thing you can do to hit sustainability goals is to adopt a ‘less is more’ mindset. “Brands are constantly pushed by buyers for more and more newness,” says Sian. “We’re sold products to fix problems we didn’t know we had. Te constant stream of ‘buy me now and you’ll be prettier’ messaging can be hard to resist, but after that initial post-purchase dopamine hit, we realise it was an empty high.” Until beauty brands start making


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