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TOP FIVE
Hygge local dining spots
BRANDT BRØD Start the day at this modern waterside cafe in Silkeborg with crisp white, blue and red decor — tables go fast and by 10am, they’re full. Order a cinnamon snurre pastry or warm rolls and butter, and get inspired to join the bakery’s sourdough bread-making courses in the adjoining workshop.
brandtbroed.dk
DREWSENS SPISEHUS This buzzy cafe in Silkeborg’s old Town Hall has a breakfast and brunch menu serving everything from poke bowls to charcuterie and rye-bread toasties. From June to August, nab a table outside to watch jazz bands perform in the town square.
spisehus.drewsens.com
Traditional smørrebrød open sandwich of cream cheese, spinach and smoked salmon
Left: Kayaking and swimming are popular in the lakelands
NY HATTENÆS This lake house hotel on the edge of Sikeborg offers views of Brassø, as well as breakfast spreads that include cheese platters and homemade pastries. Even if you’re not staying, enjoy stylish modern Danish cuisine in the candlelit restaurant or on the outdoor terrace — book well ahead.
nyhattenaes.com
DAY ONE KAYAKING & CRAFT BEER
Morning From the heart of Silkeborg, originally an industrial 19th- century paper mill town and now an outdoors hub, the Gudenå River winds south, connecting many of the region’s biggest lakes. Hire a kayak from the Silkeborg Kanocenter and start from the town centre or pick up boats and standup paddleboards at the self-service Kayakomat at the Ly Outdoor campground a 25-minute walk away. An hour’s paddle from Silkeborg brings you to the first big lake, Brassø, where you glide along through air scented with pine and petrichor. There are plenty of places along the riverbank to pull up at on the way there — grab salads and wraps from Green Habits in Silkeborg before you set off.
oplevgudenaa.dk greenhabits.dk
Afternoon Return your watercraft and head out to nearby Almindsø, one of Denmark’s cleanest lakes. Here, the curved floating walkways of the Østre Søbad swimming area offer a protected spot for a dip that changes with the seasons. From autumn to spring, hardy Danes come to slip into mirror-like water so cold it steals your breath. In summer, it’s easy to while away the afternoon here, sunbathing on the small sand beach and enjoying refreshing swims against a lush forest backdrop, followed by Danish Kastbergs Gourmet ice cream from the kiosk. If the weather is chilly, warm up in the mixed lakeside sauna after a swim; book in advance on the Visit Aarhus website, and be prepared to forgo your costume.
visitaarhus.com
Evening The Lake District is home to one of the country’s oldest microbreweries, Grauballe Bryghus, which has been brewing unfiltered and unpasteurised hoppy beers since 2002. Buy signature brews such as Honey Gold and Enebær Stout to enjoy by the waterside — the shop on Hagemannsvej in Silkeborg is open on Fridays or by appointment. Newer breweries include Virklund Bryghus, also in Silkeborg, and Bøllingsø Bryghus in nearby Engesvang, a 12-minute train ride away. At the latter, order smørrebrød, open rye-bread sandwiches, or the pork roast with potatoes and parsley sauce to go with your beers. grauballe-
bryghus.dk virklundbryghus.dk boellingsoebryghus.dk
SVOSTRUP KRO On the Gudenå River north of Silkeborg, there’s been a waterside restaurant at this spot for 200 years. It offers hearty dishes in tiny dining rooms around a cobbled courtyard; if you’ve kayaked from town, try the hearty bargeman’s stew of pork, bacon and sausage. There are also 16 bedrooms upstairs.
svostrup-kro.dk
ORANGERIET Try eclectic, often experimental Danish cooking in this dining room of large windows and relaxed vibes. The frequently changing menu offers tasting plates, and the food showcases seasonal ingredients, pepped up with piquant local forest tastes of woodruff and wild garlic.
orangeriet.dk
JUL/AUG 2024 47
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