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IMAGES: GETTY; NATASHA BAZIKA; JEFF KIRBY; CARLTON WARD; NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC; LUCA TETTONI/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES; ALAMY


THE DOGS SEEKING OUT THE WORLD’S RAREST DOLPHINS


JOIN A DOLPHIN-SPOTTING BOAT TRIP IN AKAROA, NEW ZEALAND, WHERE THE GUIDES COME FURRY AND FOUR-LEGGED. WORDS: NATASHA BAZIKA


Buster’s ears perk up as he paces the starboard, scanning the vast expanse of blue water. He’s seen something — or rather, heard it. “Dogs have remarkable hearing,” says George Waghorn, skipper and co-owner of nature cruise operator Akaroa Dolphins. “They can tune into the clicks and whistles of dolphins.” Buster angles his head towards the water,


as if eavesdropping on a conversation. His eyes fix on the surface and, sure enough, two dolphins emerge from the depths. Passengers rush to the side in excitement, but Buster remains composed, his duty — to spot Hector’s dolphins, the world’s smallest and rarest marine dolphins — fulfilled. Salt-and-pepper-coloured, with


svelte bodies and rounded dorsal fins,


Hector’s dolphins only venture up to around 30 miles from Akaroa Harbour, not far from Christchurch, on New Zealand’s South Island. The waters I find myself bobbing on are the only destination in which to observe some of the 7,000 or so left in the world. “Like us, the dogs follow a schedule,” says


George. Albie, his English springer spaniel, who joins us on the next cruise, has been sailing since he was barely out of puppyhood. “He’s well tuned to the dolphin’s frequency,” explains George, as Albie, splayed out next to me, hangs his head over the edge as far as it can go. Dolphin dogs like him undergo minimal formal training. “It’s more about nurturing their innate instincts.” READ MORE ONLINE


| E N V I R O N M E N T |


The last flower at the top of the world — and the perilous journey to reach it Scientists have found ingenious flora on a stretch of gravel off the coast of Greenland, the farthest north you can go and still walk on land. natgeo.com/environment


| S C I E N C E |


Is flavour really just an illusion? A unifying definition of what flavour is continues to escape those who study it. The only thing scientists agree on is what it is not — but it comes down to a series of tricks your brain plays on you. natgeo.com/science


| H I S T O R Y | VISIT NATGEO.COM/TRAVEL FOR NEW TRAVEL FEATURES DAILY


A colourful history of red lipstick A symbol of opulence or a sign of witchcraft? From its early use by sex workers in ancient Greece to its place as a symbol of glamour, lipstick has long been associated with beauty, power and rebellion. natgeo.com/history


BEYOND THE TRAVEL SECTION


SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK


INSTAGRAM


FACEBOOK X


WELLNESS EXPERIENCES


UNESCO-protected practices An Indonesian elixir is the latest tradition to be acknowledged for its contribution to heritage


MINDFULNESS


Make the most of public gardens In recent years, these spaces have sought to deepen visitors’ connection with nature


ADVENTURE TRIPS


Everglades National Park Journey to the southern tip of Florida to visit the largest subtropical wilderness in the US


JUL/AUG 2024 45


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