At 281sq miles, Low Tatras National Park is the largest in Slovakia, and bears, wolves and lynx thrive on its densely forested mountain slopes. Parts of it are restricted, with access granted only to ecologists and rangers in order to protect the wildlife. In the wider park, people enjoy hiking and cycling, stopping to spot flora and fungi, such as the fairytale-like, but highly toxic, fly agaric mushroom. Slovakia has one of the best marked trail systems in Europe, and in Horehronie some of these follow old logging roads. Along these routes, visitors will find cabins and bunkhouses, like the one at Andrejcová, a welcome respite after a long day’s walk.