CONTENTS Smart traveller


17 | SNAPSHOT A headful of flowers in the mountains of Ladakh, India 18 | BIG PICTURE Bathing in the ‘red zone’ in the Polish town of Rybnik 21 | CINQUE TERRE Liguria’s much- loved Via dell’Amore returns 23 | COUNTY KERRY Ireland welcomes a new national park 25 | FOOD Medieval influences loom large in Belgian cuisine 27 | WHERE TO STAY Hotels that celebrate Tartu’s heritage 28 | INSIDE GUIDE A dance through the streets of Cali, Colombia 30 | FAMILY Alpine hills and thrills in Austria’s lush Stubai Valley


32 | UK BREAKS Off the beaten track in North Staffordshire 35 | BOOKS Six brilliant reads for the warmer months 36 | KIT LIST Family essentials for coastal and river excursions 39 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR Sophie Yeo on the legacy of ice fishing in the Finnish wilderness 40 | COMPETITION Win a seven- night trip to Chile for two 43 | MEET THE TRAILBLAZER Edward Ndiritu on the future of anti-poaching in central Kenya 44 | ONLINE Highlights from nationalgeographic.com/travel


25 58 32 On the cover Insider


Palm trees in Beverly Hills, Los Angeles Image: Getty


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46 | WEEKENDER: DANISH LAKES Dive into the waters around Silkeborg, where wild swimming spots mingle with fairytale forests 52 | EAT: SOUTH DEVON Award- winning wines, local rums and stellar farm shops in the south west 58 | SLEEP: ROME Savour the Eternal City with a stay that incorporates its rich history, from grand palazzos to antique-filled boutiques


NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL Travel talk


166 | ASK THE EXPERTS A food tour of Malaysia, hotels for a Jane Austen-stye stay and more 168 | THE INFO A short history of the Edinburgh Fringe 169 | HOT TOPIC The state of travel in Cyprus 50 years after its division 170 | PHOTO COMPETITION 2024 Check out this year’s winning images, selected from thousands of entries across six categories


30 Get involved


187 | SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive four issues for £3 with our summer offer 188 | EVENTS Get a taste of what’s on offer at this year’s Food Festival 193 | INBOX Let us know what you think of the magazine to be in with a chance of winning a great prize 194 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT Photographer Ulf Svane on distilling the magic of Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival for our June issue


IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; MAMA SHELTER ROMA; TVB STUBAI TIROL/ANDRE SCHÖNHERR; GETTY


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