IMAGE: STOCKFOOD
SMART TRAVELLER
MU S T-T RY DI SHE S WATERZOOI
This delicate stew features chicken, or seafood, poached in a creamy broth and is laden with flavourful vegetables like leeks and celery. It’s the perfect vehicle for creativity; a summer version might include asparagus, tomatoes and fragrant basil, though my favourite is with scallops.
VLAAMSE STOVERIJ
Also known as carbonades flamandes, this is a slow-cooked stew of beef — or pork cheeks — caramelised onions, aromatic herbs and a subtly bitter Belgian brew. Enjoy it with apple sauce, a generous helping of Belgian fries and a glass of beer.
BELGIAN WAFFLES A TAS TE OF Belgium
BELGIAN CUISINE CONTINUES TO BE INFLUENCED BY THE FLAVOURS OF ITS MEDIEVAL PAST
Over the centuries, Belgium has been invaded by numerous European people — including the Romans, Vikings, Spanish, French, Germans and Dutch. The favourite ingredients and cooking techniques of the invaders were picked up by locals, who, by the Middle Ages, had developed a cuisine they could call their own. Our cuisine is still deeply
rooted in medieval cookery. This infl uence of the Middle Ages, a time when Flemish culture was highly developed, can be seen in the way we use condiments, mustards, vinegars and dried fruits to obtain delicate balances of sweet and sour, or sweet and salty; in our use of fresh and dried fruits and nuts, particularly almonds, to enhance fl avour and presentation. The spices we use so abundantly to season everything, from meats and vegetables to desserts and wine, can be traced back to those favoured in the Middle Ages — nutmeg, cinnamon, peppercorns, saff ron, ginger and bay leaves. We love chervil, tarragon, thyme, sage, parsley and chives
— the same ingredients that grew in the herb gardens of medieval monasteries. We also eat potatoes in nearly
every guise; fried potatoes are practically our national dish. Mussels are consumed regularly, and we’re a nation of meat- lovers — pork, beef, veal and chicken, as well as game, from rabbit and wild boar to wild birds of every sort.
We often make a meal of charcuterie accompanied by breads and beer. The country is known for its vegetables (namely brussels sprouts and endives) as well as for waffl es and, of course, chocolate. Given this bounty, it’s perhaps surprising
It’s hard to ignore the Belgians’ passion for waffles: you’ll notice the sweet aroma of the freshly baked delicacy wherever you go. The Brussels waffle, served in tearooms, is topped with chantilly, ice cream or fresh fruit.
Essential ingredient Belgian beer is central to many meat and fi sh dishes. It’s perfect for marinating, braising, slow-stewing or even deglazing a pan to make gravy
Left: Belgian waffles with roasted rhubarb and clementines
RUTH VAN WAEREBEEK
is a Belgium-born chef and cookbook author.
She’s also chef-owner of Mapuyampay Gastro Lodge in Chile
that there are few cookbooks devoted to Belgian cooking. But the reason is simple: in Belgium, the secrets of cooking are still transmitted orally from generation to generation. Our cuisine is home cooking at its best. This is an edited extract from The Taste of Belgium by Ruth Van Waerebeek (£25, Grub Street).
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