IMAGE: ALAMY
PERU View over Cusco’s Plaza
de Armas, from the hill of Sacsayhuamán
A practical guide to visiting Peru
Should I visit using a tour operator or independently? Booking with a tour operator means you won’t have to worry about logistics, which can, at times, be complicated. If you’re travelling to Machu Picchu from Cusco, for example, a tour operator will take care of all legs of the journey, which includes a bus, rail and minibus ride. As larger suitcases aren’t allowed on the train, your operator will also look after your luggage should you want to overnight in the gateway town of Aguas Calientes before or after visiting the citadel. What’s more, it means you’ll have a guide with you at most times, which can really bring this storied country to life. That said, Peru — especially the south — is
easy enough to visit independently, with a well-developed tourist infrastructure. Bus companies such as Peru Hop, whose services include hotel pick up and English-speaking guides, can make the logistics easier.
If I plan the trip myself, should I book every leg of the itinerary before I leave? Cornerstone experiences such as Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail require advance booking, particularly during high season (June to the end of August). Reserve six weeks in advance for the former and at least six months ahead for the latter. Flights and accommodation should also be booked at least three months in advance during this period. Overland bus travel can generally be secured a day or two before departure, particularly in the north of Peru, where there are fewer tourists.
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Which Machu Picchu circuit should I book? In 2021, the Peruvian Ministry of Culture implemented one-way visitor circuits at Machu Picchu to disperse traffic, and while pandemic-era restrictions are no longer in place, the system remains to better distribute footfall and protect constructions. The four tracks take in different parts of the citadel; circuit 2 is the most comprehensive, but both circuits 1 and 2 take in the ‘lower’ as well as the ‘upper’ areas, including the House of the Guardian, which offers the iconic pulled-back view of the site. Circuits 3 and 4 take in only the ‘lower’ structures. For more information on what each circuit includes, visit
ticketmachupicchu.com
How should I manage my money when travelling here? In places such as Cusco and Lima, credit cards are increasingly accepted, but in rural areas and small restaurants, shops and B&Bs, cash is king. ATMs will generally charge a fee of between £5 and £10 for withdrawals, so it can make sense to take cash out in larger amounts. Use ATMs attached to banks, during daylight hours and with other people around.
Do I need to speak Spanish? Few Peruvians outside of tourist hubs speak much English. Aside from helping you board the correct bus, knowing some basic Spanish can assist when it comes to haggling for a taxi or at the local market, where it’s common to try to knock a bit of money off prices.
GETTING THERE & AROUND There are no direct flights to Peru, but various airlines fly from London to Lima with one connection. Average flight time: 16h. Domestic flights connect Lima with other cities, although inter-regional travel is generally only by bus, which is affordable and mostly comfortable.
WHEN TO GO September to the end of November is cool and dry along the coast (20C) and in the highlands (16C) and less crowded than the peak months (June to end August). Water levels in the Amazon are the lowest between June and December, when animals concentrate around water channels, making this prime time for wildlife viewing. The Inca trail closes for maintenance every February.
MORE INFO
peru.travel DK Eyewitness Peru. £14.99
HOW TO DO IT Latin Routes has a 14-day Peru Explorer itinerary, which covers the country’s southern highlights and includes flights to Lima, from £3,799 per person. For an additional £2,299 per person, their Northern Peru add-on visits under-the-radar archaeological sites.
latinroutes.co.uk
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