Berlin wields the power, Munich has the traditions and Frankfurt banks the money. Yet Hamburg is Germany’s truly global city — the place where the River Elbe opens out into the waters of the North Sea, and where the Bundesrepublik opens its heart to the world. Saltwater runs in the blood here: for centuries Hamburg was a stridently independent city state and free port — a kind of European Singapore, on whose docks sailors and goods from distant continents mingled. You can understand this clearly by looking at a map — the city today is defined less by its grid of tarmac streets and squares, and more by its labyrinth of shipping channels, quays and lakes. Its moniker of the ‘Gateway to the World’ endures — armadas of container ships still dock here; forests of cranes still fidget along the wharfs. At ground level, too, ordinary visitors can witness how


saltwater has shaped the city. At the centre of Hamburg are the UNESCO-listed warehouses of the Speicherstadt district — where merchandise from coffee to carpets was unloaded in the 19th and 20th centuries, and restaurants and cafes now also ply their trade in the 21st. You can tour the nightclubs of Hamburg’s legendary thoroughfare the Reeperbahn, where shore-sick sailors once came for salty adventures — though landlubbers outnumber them


these days on nights out. The motif of the sea recurs in Hamburg’s architecture, from office blocks shaped like ships’ prows to the Elbphilharmonie, which was built in 2017 and is perhaps Europe’s most extraordinary concert hall, its roof contoured like rolling swells. The profits of ocean-going trade have helped make Hamburg rich since the 12th century; its skyline is marked by some of Europe’s tallest and most opulent churches, their spires collectively resembling the masts of a flotilla. But above all, the tides of the sea — and tides of


incomers — have shaped Hamburg’s identity, creating a place that’s liberal, open-minded and unpretentious. You sense this watching a game at FC St Pauli — Germany’s most left-wing leaning football club — whose piratical fans sail through the seasons under a flag with a skull and crossbones. You can understand it with a mouthful of fischbrötchen — the utilitarian fish sandwich that’s Hamburg’s civic delicacy, usually sold at a profoundly democratic price of under €5 (£4.30). And you can feel it standing on one of the city’s many bridges, watching the tide ebb and flow through Hamburg. The water is a perfect metaphor for the city it laps against: restless, dynamic and forever on the move.


JUL/AUG 2024


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