HAMBURG
Walther Eisenberg handcrafts skipper caps Clockwise from right: Labskaus, a hearty dish of cured beef brisket with sour fried herring at Hobenköök restaurant; Hobenköök’s industrial- looking interior
BUY WALTHER EISENBERG DER MÜTZENMACHER: Set midway between Hamburg’s main station and the town hall, this independent hatmaker is one of the city’s most intriguing shops, with headgear for all occasions. Most dapper are the nautical hats, tailored for real ship’s captains (and probably some pretend ones, too).
muetzenmacher.de BOUTIQUE BIZARRE: Set on the notorious Reeperbahn, Europe’s largest adult store has been a Hamburg institution for nigh on 35 years. Its inventory includes whips, chains and various other items whose function are not fit for print.
instagram.com/boutiquebizarrehh FELIX JUD & CO: This handsome bookshop has been in business for a century. It was founded by anti-Nazi activist Felix Jud, who survived the concentration camps and returned to rebuild his business after the war. Inside you’ll find first editions and second- hand volumes — also somewhat splendid is the historic arcade in which it stands, with art nouveau-style frescoes gilding the ceiling.
felix-jud.de
EAT £ BRÜCKE 10: Superior specimens of Hamburg’s city dish, fischbrötchen, are served at Brücke 10 — a restaurant on the floating pontoons of St Pauli Piers. It’s essentially fish served in a bun, often with onions and gherkins, but here the sandwiches take myriad forms — pollock schnitzel, Bismarck herring, and crab are among the classics.
bruecke10.com £ £ KLEINE PAUSE: Of the many imbiss — traditional German fast-food restaurants — that stand on the street corners of the St Pauli district, Kleine Pause is perhaps the most characterful. It has charmingly retro West German-style interiors and an array of wursts to choose from, but the classic imbiss option is an extra spicy currywurst.
kleine-pause.de £ £ £ HOBENKÖÖK: Set in an old warehouse, Hobenköök translates as ‘harbour restaurant’ — though there’s more to it than the name suggests, with a food market and sometime gig venue also part of the set-up. Artfully constructed dishes include local specialities — dive into labskaus: a hearty beef broth that’s a North Sea staple.
hobenkoeoek.de
SLEEP £ PYJAMA PARK REEPERBAHN: Part of a
small family of hostel-cum-hotels in Hamburg, this spirited establishment has both double rooms and dorms decorated with colourful artworks — including nods to the Beatles who first honed their skills as a band playing nightclubs nearby. The dorm-room ladders to upper bunks can be quite a challenge after a night out on the Reeperbahn.
pyjama-park.de £ £ MOTEL ONE FLEETINSEL: This hotel
scores highly for its location — perched on a sliver of land between two canals, a two- minute stroll from the harbour. Compact, comfy rooms have Juliet balconies — lean out and you might spot the Elbphilharmonie rising over the cherry trees outside.
motel-one.com £ £ £ REICHSHOF: In operation on and off
since 1910, this splendid pile opposite Hamburg Hauptbahnhof station was once Germany’s biggest hotel. It remains one of the most opulent, with marble columns and chandeliers in the lobby, and a handsome wood-panelled dining room.
reichshof-hotel-hamburg.de
JUL/AUG 2024 161
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