Y OUR
Xxxxxxx ACCESS NEWS
“You can now find out much needed crag updates on the move. Download our new RAD app to get access info, seasonal restrictions, parking and weather tips, and much more. Available for Android and iOS devices:
www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-rad-app” Rob Dyer, BMC access & conservation officer
NATIONWIDE: Storm damaged trees
Following the numerous powerful storms that have rolled in over the past few months, there have been reports of fallen trees a numerous crags around the country – in particular Yorkshire and the NE of England were badly affected by Storm Arwen with crags such as the Kyloe crags (Northumberland) and Trow Gill (Yorkshire), amongst others. As I type, the trio of Storms Dudley, Eunice and Franklin have just worked their way through and whilst no reports have come in of damage yet as no one will have been climbing, there is a good chance trees will be down at crags elsewhere in the country too. Be aware that fallen trees can be dangerous if they aren’t in a stable position and please get in touch with your local access rep or access@thebmc.
co.uk if you notice fallen trees which are causing issues at a crag.
DERBYSHIRE: Colehill Quarry & National Stone Centre, Wirksworth:
the BMC has been in discussion for the past six months with the Institute of Quarrying who are in the process of taking over the National Stone Centre in Wirksworth. The site, which encompasses a number of quarries of interest to climbers, is in the process of changing ownership to the Institute of Quarrying. This has brought with it the opportunity to revisit access for climbers, which in the past has had to be under the radar. Fortunately, thanks to an open and progressive attitude to access by the Institute of Quarrying, they are keen to welcome responsible climbers onto the site, subject to the below:
• As with any crag, climbers accessing the quarries within the National Stone Centre do so at their own risk
• All existing routes in these quarries are now accessible for climbers, but please pause any further development (rock scaling, bolting or vegetation removal) for the time being until a full agreement for the future can be made with the Institute of Quarrying
• Please use the formal car parks, pay for parking and use the café and facilities on site – visitor payments help to fund the running of the site as somewhere open to the public and climbers
LEICESTERSHIRE: Beacon Hill
Positive developments are underway for access to this iconic East Midlands crag – full details are extensive and too long to print in full, but are available on the RAD.
Diolch yn fawr iawn, Elfyn!
And in English, we’d like to say the biggest thank you very much to Elfyn Jones, who we’re sorry to say is retiring from the BMC after over 12 years of service. Throughout his time at the BMC, Elfyn has been a rockstar member of staff, always willing to get stuck in and help out, a huge asset to the BMC’s Access & Conservation Team and a strong, well-respected voice for BMC Cymru / Wales. We’re sorry to see you go Elfyn and best of luck in your future endeavours!
Words: X x x
DERBYSHIRE: Wildcat, Matlock:
Negotiation is ongoing with the new owners of Wildcat to try to find a solution for the future which allows climbing on the Main Crag. Please be patient whilst these discussions continue and avoid the crag for the time being. Any updates will be communicated on the RAD as soon as any agreement is made.
NORTH WALES: Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadog
Following the winter storms, there are a number of fallen trees across the descent path, and some damage to the path itself. Take great care in this area until the BMC and its contractors have competed some clearance and repair works.
NORTH WALES: Craig Ty Newydd
Access has been restored to this sport climbing venue close to Dyserth in North East Wales. However, it is imperative that the land owner is sent a text before you visit, as occasionally the area below the cliff is used for target shooting. All the relevant information is on the BMC RAD.
CORNWALL: Tintagel
Discussions are ongoing around future access to this iconic adventurous climbing venue. We hope to reach a conclusion in the next few months and any updates will be posted to RAD.
NORTH WALES: Great Orme, Upper Pen Trwyn
A reminder that climbing is not allowed above the road (The Marine Drive) until after 6pm on Bank holiday weekends and during school summer holidays. The climbing and bouldering in the nearby Parisellas Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo area are not affected by this restriction.
PEMBROKESHIRE: Range West
A reminder that everyone who wishes to climb at Range West in Pembroke in 2022 must attend one of the face to face briefings in person. Bookings are not required, simply turn up at the Castlemartin Army Camp a few minutes before the briefing is due to start. The briefings last about 40 minutes in total. The remaining dates for these briefings in 2022 are:
• Friday 15 April 2022 – 09.00 (Good Friday Bank Holiday) • Saturday 28 May 2022 – 09.00 • Thursday 16 June 2022 – 18.00 • Saturday 16 July 2022 – 09.00
SOUTH WALES: C oed Dimbath
Access to climb at this venue, which lies on land owned by Natural Resources Wales is still restricted, however there are ongoing discussions with NRW conservation staff and an agreement is imminent. In the meantime please continue to avoid this venue and keep an eye out on the BMC RAD for updates.
72 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.
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