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D


orset’s sport climbing has become even more popular than before during the pandemic, as climbers from the south-east, who could no longer visit indoor walls, switched their focus to the closest crags to London. With such an influx of climbers onto the sensitive crag environment, it is more important than ever to look after these places. Sport crags are very different to indoor walls, and we all need to be that bit more responsible and thoughtful. Let’s all clean our shoes and minimise our contribution to polishing the rock – it’s a finite resource and we can’t just switch the holds when they get worn. Top roping is a great way to push your grade, but make sure your rope is through your own gear rather than direct to the lower off so the hardware isn’t worn prematurely. Be kind to others, don’t take up all the space below the crag or hog routes – the crags might be busy but that doesn’t mean we can’t all have a good time if we look out for each other.


Dorset Sport Climbing


Marti Hallett, BMC Access Representative


Borrowdale Parking B


orrowdale, the heart of the Lakes and one of its loveliest valleys, but is it being loved to death? Before lockdowns were thought of, the side valley of Seathwaite saw a surge in hillwalkers keen to bag one of the ‘Three National Peaks’. Then came Covid restrictions and with them a huge swell of visitors: Borrowdale took the brunt of it. Just as the heat came on, we had a quick succession of parking issues. First up, the situation at Seathwaite Farm reached boiling point when parking on both sides of the narrow lane prevented the farmer going about his


Ken Taylor, BMC Access Representative


business. Next up, a small landslide at the layby at the bottom of Troutdale took out half the parking used by climbers heading to Black Crag. And, perhaps the cruellest blow, withdrawal of permission for climbers to park at Lodore Farm meant that Shepherd’s, the most popular crag in the valley, suddenly has become less accessible than before.


All extra visitors’ cars are now vying for fewer places. The National Park planners have a policy of no new car parks, which only attract more cars anyway. Sadly, there’s no easy answer.


Don’t Watch the videos on


trash your room www.youtube.com/teamBMC


SUMMIT#105 | SPRING 2022 | 35


PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK


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