A newleaf i


As the Rugby World Cup kicks off in Japan this week,


Natalie Marsh heads southwest to Hiroshima


and Onomichi


’m staring up at what’s left of the Red Cross Hospital building in Hiroshima. On one side of the damaged structure, sturdy metal beams are


bent inwards, while on the adjacent side, they’re bent outwards, driven in opposite directions by the incredible force of the shockwaves from the atomic bomb that was dropped here in 1945. It’s a stark and humbling reminder of the atrocities that struck the city. Part of the building’s original wall is also on display, with shards of all sizes chipped out of the concrete – a result of broken glass from the explosion hitting it at speed. This is one of the few remaining structures in the centre that withstood the atomic bomb. It’s a key part of Japan’s history, and one that is available only to those who go beyond the classic Golden Route. With Japan in the spotlight thanks to this autumn’s Rugby World Cup and next year’s Tokyo Olympics, efforts to disperse tourists to less-


travelweekly.co.uk


DESTINATIONS JAPAN | ASIA


visited areas of the country are well under way, and the southern cities of Hiroshima and Onomichi are an ideal counterpoint to the well-trodden tourist trail.


HIROSHIMA Hiroshima is steeped in history. Destroyed by the atomic bomb, the city had to be rebuilt. Today, it’s a buzzing metropolis, with some fascinating attractions, unique neighbourhoods and a bustling nightlife scene. Dubbed the ‘city of water’, Hiroshima is separated


by six rivers flowing through the centre, while its backdrop is dominated by dramatic mountains as far as the eye can see. At its heart lies Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, the home of the former Industrial Promotion Hall (now known as the A-Bomb Dome), a museum and other monuments built to commemorate the victims. The park is remarkably serene and a tranquil place of respite among urban surroundings.


² 19 SEPTEMBER 2019 79


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