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expert ASK THE


“Pierre & Vacances has invested in the Hotel Himalaia Baqueira because it fits so well with our existing portfolio. The diversity of the skiing and excellent snow record here easily compete with


top resorts in France. It has the added advantage of offering good value for money, with plenty of Spanish flavour, making it ideal for the UK.”


Cathy Rankin, UK & Ireland sales director, Pierre & Vacances


ABOVE: Cinco Jotas restaurant and skiing in Baqueira-Beret FACING PAGE: David (far right) on the slopes PICTURES: Imagera; Txema Trull


ahead of the 2018 season, adding five red runs. It’s a great vantage point. “On a clear day, you can


see across to Andorra some 30 miles away,” said my ski guide, Bernard. It’s at times such as this that a guide shows their value; following Bernard’s lead gave me added confidence and turned what could have been a tricky descent into an exhilarating experience, as we weaved our way down the narrow piste. Bernard also proved to be a great companion, not only picking out spectacular routes as we cruised along under piercing blue skies and bright sunshine, but also offering pointers in an attempt to correct my less-than-perfect ski posture. That said, it’s not a lesson – guides take on the role of Sherpas here, helping groups of up to 10 people get the most out of their time on the mountain. Such companions are rare these days; in France the practice was outlawed in 2013, so for it to be included with our stay at the Hotel Himalaia Baqueira was a real bonus. It seems to me that skiers can be divided into


two groups: those who think nothing could be more exhilarating than hurtling steeply downhill among trees and ungroomed moguls, and those who can think of nothing worse – and I’m firmly in the latter camp. Yet where the resort comes into its own is its easily accessible off-piste options. The Peulla lift on the Bonaigua side of the resort allowed half of our group to head off the smooth piste, and others to remain on the red run, before our paths crossed again at the bottom. Those seeking to take things up a notch might consider the Escornacrabes route which, in the local Aranese language, means ‘where goats tumble’. This


56 19 SEPTEMBER 2019 TRIED & TESTED


Hotel Himalaia baqueira


A homage to Tibet and Nepal, the countries’ influences run throughout the 141- room Hotel Himalaia Baqueira: the lower entrance is adorned with an enormous prayer wheel, and tasteful artefacts are spread throughout. Externally, the Pierre et Vacances-operated property is sympathetic to the local style. The generous breakfast will fuel even the pickiest eaters for the day ahead,


while those wanting to unwind after a day on the slopes will appreciate the spa area, with its indoor pool and outdoor whirlpool. Lockers for guests occupy a prime spot at the base of the main gondola, meaning no need to lug skis or snowboards around.


Book it: Seven nights’ B&B starts at £360 per person, based on two sharing. Flights to Toulouse start from £45 return with easyJet, and return transfers to


Baqueira-Beret cost from £309 with HolidayTaxis. pierreetvacances.com


steep and narrow track, surrounded on both sides by sheer rock walls, is not for novices or the faint-hearted.


DESPUES DEL SKI As a relatively recent convert to skiing, I’m convinced that ski boots must have been invented for the pure elation that comes from taking them off. It’s only appropriate to mark the occasion, and while there is no shortage of options at the Baqueira base area, it seems a shame not to experience something a little more local, when there is so much nearby in the valley’s 33 villages. Arties feels like a slice of the Pyrenees at its most pristine, set beside the bubbling waters of the


Garonne. The village’s Romanesque church is worth a visit for its impressive painted ceiling. During the height of the season, more than 30 restaurants are dotted among its cobbled streets. Turning up to dine at Tauèrna Urtau at the decidedly un-Spanish time of 8pm, we were lucky


travelweekly.co.uk


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