COOKING COMPANION
THE MAGIC OF MISO
Just one ingredient with a whole pack of mouthwatering recipes in its repertoire…
WORDS BY BARBORA ORMEROD
If you’re a curious cook, you’ve probably bought miso paste for a specifi c recipe and then puzzled over how to use the rest of the jar. T is is inevitable to some extent with unfamiliar products, but miso is no novelty ingredient. It has many uses and depleting that surplus might be easier than you think.
WHAT IS MISO?
It is made from soya beans which are salted and fermented using koji, a mould culture also used in brewing sake. T e resulting thick paste with its mouthwatering fl avour has long been a staple seasoning in Japanese cuisine; used to add heſt to all manner of foods. Diff erent ingredients and fermentation periods produce diff erent types, but the typical fl avour profi le combines powerful savoury, earthy notes with a pleasant saltiness and sweet fruity hints.
WHAT CAN IT DO?
Miso functions both as a seasoning and a fl avouring in its own right. T e easiest thing is to use it instead of salt in anything from mashed potatoes to burger patties, mayonnaise, vinaigrette or even scrambled eggs. It does the job nicely, while adding a layer of fl avour. However, miso paste makes an expensive
salt substitute and has a lot more to off er, so a simple swap won’t make the most of it. Miso is also rich in umami, the savoury fl avour associated with mushrooms, parmesan,
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seaweed and fermented foods in general. Such umami fl avours are great at providing the base for soups, stews, dressings and marinades. T is last one works sublimely with meat, fi sh and vegetables, and marries particularly well with the charred notes of barbecued food. For best results, pair stronger dark miso with red meats and the subtler fl avour of white miso with fi sh and vegetables. T e thick paste also helps it adhere to the food, so you can get a more tasty marinade with every bite. Miso can also boost fl avour just before
service. Mixed with a little maple syrup and melted butter, it makes a beautiful glaze which does wonders to roast fi sh or vegetables. But perhaps my favourite thing to do with miso is to mix a few tablespoonfuls with soſt ened butter, roll it up and keep it in the fridge. T is miso butter is immensely useful and tastes so damn good that people actually close their eyes when eating toast that has been graced with it. It’s also terrifi c with a good steak, seafood risotto or simply with a dippy egg and soldiers. Surprisingly, miso’s usefulness extends
beyond savoury cooking. It can add a richness of fl avour to sweet things like chocolate brownies, caramel sauce or a vegan chocolate mousse. T e latter can be made by blending equal amounts of silken tofu with melted dark chocolate and a little white miso, served with dark caramel almond praline. Aſt er all, sugar works best when up against a worthy counterpart, and the fl avours here are quite something.
BAKED MISO COD, MUSHROOMS & SPROUTS
Serves 4
250g baby mushrooms (button or chestnut), cut the larger ones in halves or quarters 200g brussel sprouts 3 tbsp miso paste (ideally light) 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tbsp softened butter
4 x 180g pieces of cod loin (equal sizes, ideally fl at)
2–4 pak choi, depending on size, cut into wedges lengthways
1 Preheat the oven to 220C/gas 7. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the sprouts. Cook for 5 mins until tender. Drain.
2 In a bowl, mix the miso paste with the garlic and softened butter until combined. Take 1 tbsp of this mix and put it aside to top the fi sh. Add the mushrooms and sprouts to the rest of the mix and coat thoroughly (it might be easier to use your hands). Transfer everything to a large baking paper lined tray and place in the oven for 15 mins.
3 Add the pak choi to the tray and mix thoroughly to coat with the miso. Top the skin side of the cod fi llets with the remaining miso paste and place on top of everything for a fi nal 10–12 mins until the fi sh is cooked.
www.justaddmushrooms.com
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