FRUITS Archaic


From delicious damsons to quinces, and not forgetting mouthwatering mulberries, FOODLOVER is reviving the somewhat forgotten archaic fruits...


FACT FILE DAMSON


Damsons are small autumnal fruits from the rose family, not too dissimilar to plums. With a large stone and juicy fl esh, they are ideal for adding rich, darker fl avours to dishes.


FLAVOUR PROFILE Damsons are notoriously tart and so are traditionally cooked to encourage their sweeter side. They are extraordinary in desserts where their fl oral side is enhanced, while maintaining a great tartness.


COOKING CREDENTIALS Damsons are best cooked than eaten raw. They have traditionally been cooked into jams and jellies, but are also the perfect fruit for pies and tarts. For a savoury twist, try using alongside apples in pork dishes or to cut through the richness of lamb.


AVAILABILITY As an early Autumn fruit, damsons are best enjoyed in September.


DAMSON FOOL WITH SPONGE FINGERS


Serves 4-6


FOR THE CUSTARD 2 large free-range egg yolks 20g caster sugar Half tsp vanilla bean paste or extract 100ml double cream 100ml whole milk


FOR THE DAMSON COMPOTE 300g damson, or wild plums 75g caster sugar 200ml double cream


FOR THE SPONGE FINGERS 3 large free-range eggs, separated 90g caster sugar


75g plain fl our 6 tbsp icing sugar


1 For the custard, whisk the egg


yolks, sugar and vanilla together in a bowl until thick and pale. Bring the cream and milk to the boil in a non-stick pan, then whisk into the yolk mixture.


2 Return the lot to the pan and stir over a low heat until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Pour into a bowl and leave to cool, then chill for at least 4 hours.


3 Put the plums or damsons into a pan with the sugar and stir over a medium heat until the juices start to run, then increase the heat and


cook for approx. 5 mins, stirring occasionally, until cooked. Rub the mixture through a sieve into a bowl. Cool, then cover and chill along with the custard.


4 For the sponge fi ngers, preheat the oven to 180C/gas 4. Beat the egg whites in a large clean bowl into soft peaks. Whisk in the caster sugar, 1 tsp at a time, to make a stiff and glossy meringue.


5 Lightly beat the egg yolks and gently fold into the meringue, then sift over the fl our and fold in. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag fi tted with a 1cm plain nozzle and pipe 2cm wide strips in 8–10cm long lines across two large


lined baking sheets, leaving 5cm between each one.


6 Dust with one-half of the icing sugar and leave to rest for 5 mins, then dust with the remaining icing sugar and bake for 10 mins. Leave to cool, then store in an airtight tin until needed.


7 To serve, whip the cream in a large mixing bowl until it just begins to form soft peaks. Gently fold in the custard and plum purée until only just mixed. Spoon into a serving bowl and serve with the sponge fi ngers for dipping.


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