COOKING COMPANION MASTERCLASS
bread that won’t give you indigestion!” Today, sourdough is king of the artisan baker’s repertoire; a toothsome, satisfying loaf made from fl our, salt and water with nothing added. T e long fermentation time, or proofi ng,
T
means that the bacteria in the sourdough starter culture pre-digest the gluten in the grains making it easier on our digestion. While the supermarkets are now in on the act (check the label; it’s not uncommon to fi nd a lot else in their sourdoughs), there is no doubt that the sourdough process, starting with a culture of wild yeasts and bacteria, demanding of the baker’s close observation and time, means that truly great sourdough is most likely to come from the small-scale bakery or your own domestic oven. Sourdough isn’t a recipe, it’s a whole approach to baking. Here are a few tips:
START WITH THE STARTER Sourdough uses a culture of wild yeasts and bacteria found on all grains as a ‘starter’ for raising the bread, rather than commercially produced yeast. You can make your own starter culture (think Herman friendship cake), it does take a few days, or you could always ask a sourdough baker for some of theirs. T e yeasts and (good) bacteria in your starter are alive and hungry. Feed them fl our and water. T ey eat the carbohydrates in the fl our and produce carbon dioxide, acids and ethanol. T e bubbles of carbon dioxide on the surface of a healthy starter culture tell you you’re ready to bake. Drop a teaspoonful in a bowl of water and if it fl oats you’re good to go. Many of the problems home bakers experience with sourdough are a result of not appreciating the importance of a healthy starter.
54 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
en years ago few people had heard of sourdough. At the market Gordon would say, “It’s not sour and its not doughy – just tasty, old fashioned
does not destroy the germ of the grain and siſt s out less of the wholegrain.
Fermentation wizard, Katie Venner, runs Tracebridge Sourdough in Somerset with her husband, Gordon
Woodcock, where they teach the secrets of sourdough. We asked Katie to explain the rise of this fabulous ferment...
ADD FLOUR At the market, people would ask us for a sourdough and we’d ask them what kind: wholemeal, rye, white sourdough? You can use any fl our or combination of fl ours, but highly processed white fl our will give you a lighter loaf. T ere is much to recommend using at least a proportion of whole grain fl our: nutritionally, it’s better for you and it will give you a lovely nutty taste. Stoneground fl ours are more nutritious than roller-milled fl ours, as the milling process
LEAVE IT TO PROVE It takes longer to rise a sourdough loaf than a loaf made with commercial yeast. Time allows the gluten to develop, and with some gentle stretch and folds, you will achieve a strong dough without kneading. T is is what we call a ‘bulk’ fermentation (prove) before you shape your loaf. Many home bakers underestimate the temperature of their kitchen. Find a warm place (24–28C) or use a hot water bottle in a cool box. Lightly cover but don’t let the cover stick to your dough.
SHAPE AND BAKE
T ere are plenty of YouTube tutorials on shaping. You’ll need a bowl lined with a well- fl oured tea cloth or a banneton to put your shaped loaf into, and leave for a further prove. Unlike baking with commercial yeast, you are not looking for it to double in size, but your loaf will have bulked out. It will take between 4 and 6 hours (or even longer) to do this depending on the temperature in your room. Turn your oven to the hottest temperature and put your baking sheet or stone in. Let it get to temperature. Very gently, so you don’t loose the air in the loaf, turn your loaf out onto the hot baking sheet. Make a few cuts or slashes on the top of the loaf with a bread knife or razor blade. T is way, when the loaf expands as it bakes it does so along these slashes. Bake for 25–45 minutes, reducing the temperature to 220–230C aſt er putting the loaf in the oven.
Resist cutting into your loaf until it’s cooled – if you can!
For classes and further information visit;
www.tracebridgesourdough.co.uk
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