TROUBLESHOOTING CHART No wind blowing; model launch normal
The Problem
Normal climb
What Might Fix It
1. Bend the trailing edge of the stab or the elevator tab up 0.30 inch.
Normal glide
2. Add a bit of modeling clay about the size of half a pea to the tail.
Dive Model dives straight in.
1. Bend the trailing edge of the stab or the elevator down .030 inch.
“Roller-coaster” stalls (Porpoising)
Severe stall
Model stalls (Nose first goes up, hesitates slightly, then drops to a dive; roller coaster).
2. If the model wasn’t turning, bend the rear of the rudder or the rudder tab about .030 inch left (as seen from the rear).
3. Try a bit of modeling clay about the size of a pea on the nose, as far forward as it will go.
3. As a last resort, reglue the wing 1⁄2 inch farther forward.
1. Go with the flow—fly right. Why fight it? You might have built it as a RH model without knowing it.
Model refuses to fly left, even though you try everything.
Spiral dive to the right
1. Hold the model at arm’s length. Close one eye and see if the wings are warped. The right wing should be untwisted, but the left should have about .070 inch wash-in. If too muchwash-in, breathe on it and twist in opposite direction. Recheck.
2. Bend rear of rudder or tab about .030 inch to the left. 3. Bend the trailing edge of the stab up about .050 inch. 4. Add about a half a pea of clay to the tail.
5. Bend right aileron tab down .050 inch and left tab up .070 inch.
Spiral dive to the right: Model raises its left wing and finally crashes to the right.
1. Remember that the rubber spinning the prop makes the plane roll left. When the motor runs down, this force is missing. Try adjusting the model so that it glides well, and then play with the prop-shaft part of the nose bearing. Twisting it a little right will open up a too-tight left turn; a little left will turn a straight climb into a left circle, etc.
The model flies great (power phases) until it runs out of power, then it dives, stalls, or goes straight.
FLYING MODELS 35
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