The unique inverted gull wing of the model is built from a combination of balsa, plywood and foam. Construction starts with the wing. Here the main spar (above
Using the three-views that I obtained from Mr. Nakel and the video, I drew the plans. The model was designed to be one piece. Only the cowl is removable. As you can see from the pictures, my model was built using foam. I did it this way because I am familiar working with foam and for a seaplane the foam is the perfect material to use. After the model was built, I was concerned about its aerodynamics, specifically that the plane was short coupled. The test flight was interesting. I balanced the model as any con- ventional model I ever built. The water han- dling was good, and the takeoff run was fine. Only when the model lifted off did it become a handful. It was extremely pitch sensitive. I tamed it by gingerly working the elevator. After managing a successful landing, I moved the motor battery slightly forward, which was enough to make the plane fly like a pussycat.
Originally when I decided to build this model, it was going to be just for myself to enjoy flying it. When I showed this model to the Editor, Frank Fanelli, he wanted to have it published. Dilemma was that the original
left) is shown for the foam wing. A plywood doubler (above right) is glued to the main spar for added strength.
model was made from foam and some balsa and plywood. Since most modelers do not have the equipment to cut the foam, I decid- ed to draw the plans for the model so it could be built from balsa and plywood. I wrote the building instruction as I would build this model using the balsa and plywood. I hope, the lack of pictures for the balsa version will not discourage you building this unique model.
Here are a few suggestions. Since the model has a short nose, use the lightest bal- sa behind the c.g. Because of the shape of the wing and booms, the rudder servos are located inside the floats. The rudder cavity is sealed from the rest of the float, so when some water splashes into this enclosure it will not enter the floats. Each rudder servo operates a water rudder and an air rudder. I recommend mounting the elevator on the underside of the stabilizer or inside one of the rudder compartments as I did on my original. Each aileron has its own servo. As mentioned previously my model is built in one piece, but the outboard wing panels can be made removable. Best way to build the
model is to follow the building sequence as presented here.
Getting started The wing: Cut out all the ribs and dihe- dral braces. Be sure that the ribs inboard have holes cut in them to pass the servo ca- bles. Glue 1⁄16-inch balsa sheets together to make the wing skins. Transfer the location of the ribs and the spar onto the inside of the bottom skins. Cut the bottom skins so, span wise, they are the exact length as shown on the front view on the second draw- ing sheet.
Build the outboard wing panel first. In the bottom skin, cut out the opening for the aileron servo. To the bottom skin, glue the main spar and all the ribs except W7. Glue the top main spar to the ribs. Glue the lead- ing edge spar to the bottom sheeting and the ribs. Sand the leading edge spar so it follows the contour of the ribs. Thread the servo ca- ble wires for the aileron servo through the ribs. Glue the dihedral brace to the main spars. Glue the W7 rib to the bottom sheet- ing and the main spars and to dihedral
The individual panels of the rear sections of the wing (above left) are ready to be glued to the main spar. Notice the groove in each panel to house extension
FLYING MODELS
wires for all servos. The left wing outer panels (above right) are now glued to the main spar.
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