The horizontal stabilizer and the elevator surface (above left) are constructed here of balsa. The cardboard templates (above right) are pinned to both sides
drill the holes for the magnets and for the dowels. Notice the formers F5 and F6 have the “tabs” at the bottom. The tabs are there so all the formers are at the same height while building the fuselage. From 1⁄8-inch balsa sheet, cut out the cabin sides. The flat sides are between former F3 and F7 and 1⁄4-inch square balsa longerons and the wing saddle. Pin the formers to the building board. Glue the cabin sides to the formers. It is important to have the former F3 at 90 degrees to the building board. Be- tween former F3 and the fuselage sides, glue the triangular stock. Glue the top 1⁄8-inch balsa sheet to the formers F3 and F4.
of a foam block. Use of a hot wire tool to cut out the fuselage shape is recommended or use one template and cut out the shape with the band saw.
1⁄8-inch balsa planking over the formers F4 to F7. Part of the front windshield can be made from solid 1⁄8-inch balsa sheet. The back of the cabin is made from the balsa blocks. Make sure that you remove as much balsa from inside of these two blocks as pos- sible to save some weight. Sand the cabin and fill in any imperfections.
To make the top of the cabin, glue the 1⁄4×
Make the cowl. Glue in the magnets to the formers F2 and F3 and the dowels to F2 only. These align and hold the cowl in place. Make the box for holding the false firewall. Between the false firewall and the sides “C” glue the 1⁄2-inch balsa triangular stock. Glue
this box to the former F3. Glue the triangu- lar stock to the former F3 and the box sides “C”. Apply sealer on the inside of the cabin to protect the raw balsa. Put the cabin aside for now. The tail and the floats: Make two
booms. Out of the 3⁄16-inch balsa sheet, cut out the leading and trailing edges and cross pieces for booms and the fins. Glue the frames for the booms and the fins to- gether. Glue the 1⁄16-inch balsa sheeting to the both sides of the fin's frames. On one side of each fin, cut out the sheeting to make the groove for accepting the stabiliz- er. Notice that this groove must be cut on minus 3 degrees angle.
In the boom frames, make the grooves for the flexible rudder control rod and glue it in. This flexible tube must be long enough to ex- tend past bulkhead #7. In one of the booms make the groove for the servo cable wires to the elevator servo. This extension cable must be long enough to be able to reach for- mer F3 in the fuselage. To one side of the boom glue on the ribs. To the same side, glue on 1⁄8-inch balsa sheet.
Flip the boom and glue the ribs and then the 1⁄8-inch balsa sheeting. Sand the booms
and the fins. Glue the fins to the boom. From 3⁄16-inch balsa sheet, cut out the stabilizer. To build the floats, cut out all the bulk-
heads. Notice that the bulkheads 2, 3 and 9 to 12 have tabs on them. In bulkheads 7 to 11 make the holes in the locations shown for the wires and the flexible tubing for the con- trol rods. Pin all the bulkheads upside down to the building board. Insert and glue the keel into the slots in the bulkheads 2 to 5. Glue the floats’ sides to the bulkheads. Glue the bulkhead 1 to the sides.
To the bulkheads 1 to 5, glue the bottom sheeting. Do not glue the bottom sheeting behind the step yet. Flip the floats on their sides and on the inside of the floats, between bulkheads 5 and 7, cut out the rectangular access opening for the rudder servos. At the bottom of this opening, glue in the balsa sheet. Flip the floats right side up and re- move the tabs.
FLYING MODELS
Order Plan CD452 for $21.00 tubing for the air rudder and for the water 21
Glue on the top sheeting. Slide the flexible
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