F6
EZ
EE
KLMNO The Impulsive Traveler Oxford, from A to Yoknapatawpha BY NANCY TREJOS Some people think of theDeep South
town of Oxford as just a college town. True, it’s home to the University of Mississippi. It may even have been named after that other college town across the Atlantic. But on a recent visit, I found that
there’s a lot more to hit there than just the books. Founded in 1837, Oxfordwas burned
down by Union soldiers in 1864. At the center of the townsquare, infront of the great white Lafayette County court- house, stands an imposing statue of a Confederate soldier.More than a centu- ry later, in 1962, troops once again descended upon the town when James Meredithbecame the first black student to enroll at Ole Miss, sparking campus riots. A life-size bronze statue of Mere- dith now stands on campus next to the Lyceum, which houses the university’s administrative offices. I was glad to see Oxford acknowledging both its Civil War and its civil rights history. Eager to learnmore, I headed to the
L.Q.C. LamarHouse. Lucius Lamarwas one of Mississippi’s greatest statesmen — a congressman, a senator and a U.S. Supreme Court justice. He wrote the state’s ordinance of secession from the Union but changed his tune after the CivilWar and urged reconciliation. Lamar’s modest Greek Revival
home,where he lived from1870 to 1888, fell into disrepair after his death, and the Oxford-Lafayette Heritage Founda- tion has spent more than three years restoring it. Open for tours by appoint- ment only, the house will have regular hours starting early next year, once new exhibits are added. According to my tour guide, Darlene Copp, each room will have a different theme: Lamar’s family life, his oratory, his politics, the war and secession, and reconciliation. Unlike many other historic homes- turned-museums that rely on replicas, only furniture that belonged to Lamar will decorate the house, including a blue velvet divan that his students gave himwhen he taught law at OleMiss. Abronze statue of the statesmanwill
also be taken out of storage soon and placed in front of the house. At 800 pounds, it’s larger than life, as was Lamar. And as was that other native son,
William Faulkner. No visit to Oxford would be complete without a stop at the writer’s house, Rowan Oak. (I never was able to find the home of the town’s other fiction-writing icon, John Gr- isham.) Though bigger than Lamar’s house, Faulkner’sGreekRevival, shield- ed by a long row of tall trees, is just as modest inside, with the type of country furnishings you’d find in any other charming Southernhome. Inthe library are bookshelves Faulkner built himself. Many of his belongings remain, includ- ing the typewriter hismother gave him. Pasted to the walls in his office are
cards on which he’d sketched out the plot outline to the Pulitzer Prize-win- ning “A Fable,” using a graphic pencil and a red grease pencil. I thought there was something very manic-looking about it.
Faulkner’s 1949 Nobel Prize in Lit-
erature was not far away, in a display case in themiddle of a dreary roomon the third floor of the university’s J.D. Williams Library. But again, there was a lot more to
discover there. In adjacent rooms, the university houses its Blues Archive, one of the largest collections of blues recordings in the world, containing more than 60,000 sound recordings and 20,000 photographs. The high- light: B.B. King’s personal record col- lection. An exhibit called “Still Got the
Blues” celebrates the archive’s 25th anniversary and tells evenmore about Mississippi’s rich blues history. In display cases surrounding Faulkner’s awards, I saw the original recording contracts for Elmore James and Sonny Boy Williamson, the ledger book that the Red Tops’ manager used to record their gigs and earnings, and artwork by Lightnin’ Hopkins and James “Son” Thomas. I was craving some Southern com-
fort food, so I returned to Courthouse Square.At theAjaxDiner, I skippedthe meat dishes in favor of the vegetable platter, but it was hard to choose from the long list of veggies, among them items I’ve never had, such as turnip greens and sweet potato casserole. “You’ve never had turnip greens? Go for the turnip greens,” a cop sitting next to me instructed. Who was I to disobey authority? Later, I strolled around the square,
which is surrounded by charming two-story buildings housing restau- rants, bookstores, art galleries and
ARKANSAS 40 30
Little Rock
20 LA. 55
Baton Rouge 10
New Orleans 59 Mobile 10 Biloxi Gulf of Mexico LARIS KARKLIS/THE WASHINGTON POST
clothing shops. Among the most popular stops is
Square Books, an independent book- storewhere ToniMorrison,AliceWalker, Alex Haley, Allen Ginsberg and many other famous authors have done read-
MoreTravel this week Topic: TRAVEL
RunDate: 08 /XX/2010 Size: 13p3 x2.4”
Artist: Karklis x4289
FRIDAY Escapes dives into the new attractions of Navy town Norfolk, Va., in Weekend.
NEXT SUNDAY The Impulsive Traveler goes gently down the
stream to Newburyport, Mass., in Travel.
oxford.TRA PROOF1
Oxford 55
MISSISSIPPI Jackson
Meridian 0 MILES FLA. 59 Birmingham ALA. 65 75 Memphis TENN. IFYOUGO
Want totakeaspur-of-the-moment triptoOxford,Miss.?Here’swhat you needtoknowfor theweekendofAug. 13-15:
GETTINGTHERE Delta Air Lines flies nonstop fromReagan National Airport toMemphis,with fares starting at$521.Memphis is 75miles northwest ofOxford.
WHERE TOSTAY Downtown Oxford Inn 400N. LamarBlvd. 800-606-1497
www.downtownoxfordinn.com Just steps fromthe restaurants and shops onCourthouse Square.Rooms start at $109.
The Inn at OleMiss AlumniDrive,University ofMississippi 662-234-2331
www.theinnatolemiss.com On-campus hotel next to theGrove, an 11- acre park,with rates from$86.
WHERE TOEAT Ajax Diner 118Courthouse Sq. 662-232-8880
www.ajaxdiner.net Casual eatery offering down-home Southern cooking.Dinner entrees start at $6.50.
DON SMETZER/ALAMY OleMiss’s greatest hits: Square Books, which sits on Courthouse Square, keeps the college town’s literary tradition alive.
ings since it opened in 1979. Framed autographed photos cover the walls, and there’s a cozy coffee shop on the top floor next to the section on Southern literature. A few doors down is Off Square
Books, a used-book annex as inviting as its parent store, with dusty wood floors and a friendly staff. “It’s okay, we’re laid-back here,” employee Adam Brady told a customer who sent merchandise crashing to the floor. Laid-back would describe all of
downtown Oxford. At Olivia’s Food Emporium, a new shop a block off the square, co-owner—andOlivia’smom— Mary Catherine Guest sets out free samples of BLT dip, curry chicken salad and spicy corn dip for customers to take to the front patio, which is so popular even in nearly 100-degree heat that she has had to place a fan out there. By 5 p.m., all thewrought-iron balco-
nies around town were filling up with people sipping cocktails. From the bal- cony of the City Grocery restaurant, I peered down at the activity on the square. A hipster guy was strumming a guitar and blowing into a harmonica hung around his neck. Two women sat chatting on a bench. I recalled what Tess Harris, whom I
had met at a furniture store earlier in the day, had said about Oxford. After visiting several times, she’d decided to move there fromDallas. “Forme, this is a final move,” she’d said. “It’s hard to explain. There’s an old saying that Ole Miss isn’t just a school. It’s a lifestyle. The same is true of Oxford.” It’s a lifestyle I could get used to.
trejosn@washpost.com
City Grocery 152Courthouse Sq. 662-232-8080
www.citygroceryonline.com Chef JohnCurrence, the2009 James BeardBest SouthernChef, serves French- inspired Southern cuisine. Entrees start at $25.
Olivia’s Food Emporium 415S. LamarBlvd. 662-234-4443
oliviasfoodemporium.com Salads, sandwiches and appetizers to go. Prices start at$6.
WHAT TODO Rowan Oak Old TaylorRoad 662-234-3284
www.rowanoak.com WilliamFaulkner’s home and grounds open Tuesday-Saturday 10a.m. to4p.m. and Sunday 1-4p.m. Adults$5, students free. Free for everyone onWednesday.
L.Q.C. Lamar HouseMuseum 616N. 14th St. 662-232-2477
www.lqclamarhouse.com Call between 8 a.m. and5p.m.Monday- Friday to schedule a tour.Open for regular hours in early2011.$5adults,$1 children.
Blues Archive J.D.Williams Library,University of Mississippi 662-915-7753
www.olemiss.edu/depts/general_library/arch ives/blues/ One of the largest blues collections in the country.OpenMonday to Friday 8 a.m. to5 p.m.
INFORMATION Oxford Convention and Visitors Bureau 662-232-2367
www.oxfordcvb.com
—N.T.
All flight and lodging information valid as of press time Thursday.
SUNDAY, AUGUST ,8 2010
Inns, Lodges & Villas DELAWARE
DE's Only 5-Star Resort! Close to Rehoboth. "The Peninsula" offers golf,wave/pools, tennis, spa, fitness center,more. FABULOUS 4-BR hm. Weekly or wknds. 1-302-645-6697
www.Homeaway.com/168286
MARYLAND
ABeautifulWaterfront Retreat ST.MICHAELS Weekday Deals! Canoes, pool, bikes.
410-745-5053www.the-oaks.com
Cayman Suites Hotel, OCEAN CITY 50 spacious ocean block 1-Bedrooms, all equipped suites w/balconies. Glass enclosed pool. Beach chairs &towels. 2, 3,4&5night value packages. 1-410-250-7600
MARYLAND
Make Your Plans for FairWeek! Deep Creek Lake,MD
Long &Foster Resort Rentals
Reserve nowfor the Garrett Co. Fair, August 7-14.
800.336.7303
www.DeepCreekResort.com 1-800-546-0042www.caymansuites.com
Chesapeake BayWaterfront St. Michaels,MD Harbourtowne Resort Romantic getaways w/waterfront room overlooking Chesa- peake Bay.Pete Dye Golf Course, Pool,Tennis, Free WiFi. Greatpackages! 800-227-1587
www.Harbourtowne.com
FIVE GABLES INN&SPA
ST.MICHAELS,MD Summer Packages!
Checkwebsite for last-minute specials! 1-877-466-0100
www.fivegables.com
MERRYSHERWOOD PLANTATION c. 1859 Elegant Italiante Victorian mansion with gardens. Private baths &delicious breakfast. Weddings &Events.
www.merrysherwood.com 1-800-660-0358
OXFORDWATERFRONT Exquisite! Upper end, 3BRs, 3BAs. Fireplace. Pool, tennis court &dock. Availability weekly, weekends&holidays. 410-745-5255
NEWYORK
Home delivery is convenient.
1-800-753-POST
Home delivery is convenient. 1-800-753-POST
SF SF
Singles $124. Suites $139-$159 Lincoln Center area, Hudson River views, 18 floors, kitchenette. 5minutes to Mid- town, safe, quiet, luxuryarea. RIVERSIDE TOWER, Riverside &80th St. Formore
RIVERSIDETOWER HOTEL $129 for 2persons
info or brochure call 800-724-3136 or visit
www.riversidetowerhotel.com
PENNSYLVANIA
MURDER MYSTERYWEEKEND! Deadly Dining, Musical Mayhem, Perilous Party,2 nites all inclusive 18th centuryestate. AllenberryResort Inn &Playhouse
www.allenberry.com 800-430-5468
SOUTHCAROLINA
Hilton Head Island
www.hhisland.info Plan agetaway with Seashore Vacations. Our beach is free. Specials available for golf, tennis, dining&more. There's shopping galore. Visit our site or call: 1-800-845-0077
TENNESSEE
PARROTTSVILLE Animal Lovers' Delight! Come and stay with us at our pet-friendly Autumn Dancer Llama Farm! Visit our website for video and details:
www.vrbo.com #233853 1-423-613-4155
VIRGINIA
Allstar Lodging 100+ CabinsinLuray 90 miles from DC. 2for 3nights &canoes included at select cabins! Hot tubs, kitchens, decks. Priv.BRs on Shen. River. PETS OK!
1-866-780-7827www.allstarloding.com
FUNNY FARM INN Open All Yr&Holidays! 75-acre horse farm. Pool. Hiking. Kids&pets okay. Brkfast. 1.25 hrs DC. Veggie garden for the guests!
540-547-3481www.bbonline.com/va/funnyfarm
NORTHCAROLINA VIRGINIA MIMSLYN INN
Escape to the Shenandoah Valley! Elegant Historic Inn Perfect for Summer Getaways, Fine /Casual Dining, SundayBrunch,Weddings, Retreats. Rt. 211 in the heart of Luray.
800-296-5105
www.mimslyninn.com Dinner,Lodging and Spa Packages.
WESTVIRGINIA
BAVARIAN INN Historic Shepherdstown,
1hour fromWashington,D.C. STAYAND PLAY!
10 minutes from Hollywood Casino
at Charles Town Races. Table Games. Elegant Rooms -Potomac River Views, Whirlpool Baths, AAA Four Diamond Award.
Fine German&Continental Cuisine. Wine Spectator Best of
AwardofExcellence.Golf Packages too!
www.bavarianinnwv.com 304-876-2551
West Virginia Wild and Wonderful
THEWOODS Getaway Package:
Stay 2nts, get 3rd night FREE! (Thru 11/15/10.
Walden or Evergreen Lodges. Consecutive nts. only, no holidays or holiday wknds). TheWoods is only 90 mi. fromDC&offers: SleepyCreek Spa, Golf, Swimming, Dining, Tennis&more!
www.TheWoods.com or 888-699-2221 CARIBBEAN
BARBADOS OCEANFRONT VILLA On Bluff...Overlooking Ocean!
4bedrooms,4baths, a/c,2pools and private stairs to beach! Owner: 703-527-5154
ST.MAARTEN
www.beachsidevillas.com OCEANEDGE, upscale 1, 2,3BR
A/C Villas. Fully Equipped Kitchen, BBQ. Daily housekeeping, free WI-FI cable TV.Perfect vacation all year!
Call OwnerYolanda 313-884-7706
US Virgin Islands – No Passport Required Bolongo Bay Resort -65rooms right on the beach 2popular restaurants/bars, free water sports &Scuba lesson. 20% off terrific All Incl. Plan
No buffets, premium drinks. 40% off Room Only 800-350-9660
www.bolongobay.com
WESTVIRGINIA
GREENBRIER RIVER CABINS "The FrontYard is the Greenbrier River &
the BackYard is the Greenbrier River BikeTrail". 5rustic modern cabins with all amenities. Large decks
&screened porches overlook the river. 1-800-CALL-WVA 304-653-4646 www.GreenbrierRiverCabins.Com West Virginia Wild and Wonderful
SMOKE HOLE RIVERSIDE LOG CABINS Just 2½ hours from DC-Seneca Rocks. Honeymoon & family log cabins. Jacuzzi, fpl., full kitchen. Greathiking! Weekday special.
www.smokehole.com 800-828-8478
COSTARICA
COSTADEL SOL LUXURY 4-5 BR Dream villa with breathtaking views. Designed for luxuryvacations, weddings &privacy. Secluded yet close to beach, dining &townactivities.
www.casalumenez.com
202-333-6247 Quality villas, farmhouses & apartments. Also Rome,
RENTALS
ITALY ITALY
Florence, Venice apartments. Personalized service from
Italy specialists. Free catalogs.
ITALIANVACATION VILLAS
www.villasitalia.com
Inns,Lodges
& Villas Ayear-round
advertising marketplace! 202-334-7003
1-800-627-1150
boucharda@washpost.com
Home delivery is convenient. 1-800-753-POST
washingtonpost.com/subscribe SF
M
i
s
s
.
R .
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152