DESTINATION
Pioneer Woman Mercantile establishes rural Oklahoma on the national map
T By Laura Araujo
he population of Pawhuska, Okla., more than doubles on a Saturday. The Osage County Seat—with 3,500 inhabitants—at- tracts 3,000 to 4,000 guests per day to visit the Pioneer Woman Mercantile. In the months since its Oct. 31, 2016 grand opening, fans from all 50 states and abroad have fl ocked to downtown Pawhuska to eat, shop and perhaps take a selfi e with the Pioneer Woman herself, Ree Drummond. Most Oklahomans are familiar with Drummond, the writer and photog- rapher behind the wildly successful Pioneer Woman blog. She has built a loyal readership sharing “confessions” from the family’s cattle operation west of Pawhuska and her home-cooked recipes with step-by-step photos—all replete with humor. The food-writer, best-selling cookbook author and Food Network personality has been in the public eye for a decade, but never has a vision been so near to heart as the Mercantile.
“She has been intimately involved in every aspect. I’ve never seen her so close to a project,” Mercantile head chef Kurtess Mortensen says. In 2012, Ree and her husband Ladd Drummond, Indian Electric
Cooperative members, purchased an abandoned building in the heart of Pawhuska and began a four-year process of restoring it. Constructed in 1903, the building became home to the Osage Mercantile Company in 1910. During Prohibition, it functioned as speakeasy, evidenced by a collection of old bottles found in the basement. It was even rumored to have been connected to the local hotel by tunnel. In subsequent years, the building
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housed a variety of businesses. But after decades of dormancy, it was in need of a new beginning. The Drummonds had the dream to bring the mercantile back to life—with
as much authenticity as possible. During the renovation, they refi nished the tin ceiling tiles, had a craftsman restore most of the building’s original win- dows and kept the hardwood fl oors whenever possible. Originally, they had planned to reestablish a General Store shopping experience. However, as time passed, their vision for the Mercantile expanded. “We can’t do a store without food. And we can’t do a deli without a bak-
ery,” the Drummonds decided. The Deli restaurant serves locals and hungry shoppers from breakfast to
dinner. Ree Drummond and Chef Mortensen spent hours adapting recipes from the Pioneer Woman cookbooks and blog to fi t the full-service restau- rant environment. “Ree thinks so much about food. She’s genuinely obsessed with it.”
Mortensen says. “I get random texts from her with new ideas, which is great because I think about food 80 percent of the time.” Fan-favorites like the Marlboro Man sandwich, originally made with cube
steak, sautéed onions and seasonings, have been re-imagined. Now more indulgent, the sandwich is made with USDA-choice ribeye and served with a plate of crisp, homemade chips. In addition, a grab-and-go line allows those who might not have the time for a sit-down meal to pick up a salad or fresh-made sandwich. The Mercantile’s coffee bar is situated under a green National Biscuit Co. (Nabisco) mural they uncovered during the renovation and preserved. They offer three Pioneer Woman coffee blends, all sourced by Tulsa’s Topeca Coffee through a family farm in El Salvador. Two signature drinks have become best sellers at the Mercantile. The Spicy Cowgirl is a cold brew with mocha and milk, topped with a drizzle of heavy cream, vanilla and a pinch
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