HOW TO BODY CLEANSER
MAKE A BODY CLEANSER
How to...
The right or wrong choice can spell the difference between a non-irritating formula and one that triggers skin issues. Luckily, Núria Marimon Margarit, R&D Technician at Kao Corporation, is here to help
Núria Marimon Margarit, R&D Technician, Kao Corporation
Body cleansers are one of the most
important personal care products. We use these products in our daily routines, throughout our life and over the largest part of our body: the skin. So, being aware of the importance of such products, let’s have a look at understanding what a body cleanser really is and how it is made. Different types of body cleansers can be prepared: body gels, liquid soaps, cream washes, shower oils, soap bars and others. The main difference between them is the ingredients composition and the texture. However, all of them have something in common in their composition: surfactants.
Surfactants are the key ingredients for cleansing. The main benefits a surfactant should provide are a good cleansing level, good foam profile and low skin irritation.
Different surfactants are present in a body cleanser formulation. The primary surfactant is usually responsible for providing the cleansing and the generation of foam, and in most of the cases it is anionic.
A secondary surfactant, usually amphoteric, is added to provide a full low-irritation formula and also to enhance foaming properties. Finally, a third non-ionic surfactant is added, which provides many different properties such as thickening or solubilising properties, enhancing skin feeling, etc.
As a whole, surfactants are the most important ingredients to choose when formulating a body cleanser, regardless of the formulation format. The adequate body cleanser is the one comprised by surfactants that cleanse our skin, but also respect our natural skin barrier.
Last but not least, considering the high volume of body cleanser used every day all over the
44 January 2021
world, it is extremely important to choose ingredients that not only take care of our body but also respect the environment, with a good biodegradability profile and low aquatic toxicity. This article shows how to create a liquid body wash that can be used in a pump dispenser. The ingredients chosen can provide the highest performance in the simplest formulation. Optimum properties can be obtained with the minimum number of ingredients for outstanding cleansing and foam profile with minimum skin irritation; no extra ingredients are needed. We have chosen AKYPO FOAM LM 25 (potassium laureth-4 carboxylate) as the primary surfactant, because it provides a high amount of foam with a creamy foam texture. Although it is the primary anionic surfactant, it is extremely mild on the skin. BETADET S-20 (lauryl hydroxysultaine) is the secondary surfactant, because it also has an extremely mild profile and provides nice stability at cold temperatures. In addition, BETADET S-20 acts as a foam booster, ensuring that the foaming experience is really pleasant during product use. Finally, we have chosen EMANON EV-E (glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate) as tertiary surfactant, which provides a smooth skin feeling during application
Formulation: Mousse body wash Composition
%
AKYPO FOAM LM 25 BETADET S-20 EMANON EV-E Glycerine
Preservative Lactic acid Parfum
Deionised water
16.0 8.0 3.5 1.0 1.0
q.s. (pH adjust = 6.5–7.0) q.s.
Up to 100%
Manufacturing method 1. Dissolve AKYPO FOAM LM 25 in deionised water. 2. Add BETADET S-20, EMANON EV-E and glycerine; wait for complete dissolution of each of them. 3. Add a preservative and wait for complete dissolution. 4. Adjust pH with lactic acid to the desired pH.
For a unique sensory experience This formulation has been designed for use with a pump dispenser bottle. However, if you want to achieve a unique foam experience with an
extremely creamy feeling, make sure you use an airless pump bottle.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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