INGREDIENTS EYE CARE
In clinical trials carried out on 21 women aged between 45-65, 76% reported a reduction in coloured circles around their eyes, while 61% said puffiness was reduced and 52% saw a reduction in crow’s feet after applying a 0.5% InitialE [PT+TMG] emulsion twice a day for 30 days.
RESTING WELL
A lack of sleep has long been called out as a culprit for those struggling with skin issues – and, in times of high stress and anxiety, a good night’s rest is more sought after than ever. “People are sleeping less, or their sleep quality is worse, during the pandemic,” Lipotrue’s Mateu tells Cosmetics Business, adding that this is not only a consequence of not getting sufficient rest but of “being alert all the time”. In the company’s survey of US adults, 98% admitted they have developed new sleep problems as a result of the pandemic, while 68% are struggling to sleep well even after lockdown restrictions were lifted. And the eyes may tell if consumers fail to get their beauty sleep; regularly skipping sleep is known to induce oxidative stress and inflammation, leading to sagging eyelids, wrinkles, dark circles, eye bags and even a compromised immune system due to a weakened epidermal barrier making it easier for toxins to penetrate the skin. Claiming to provide a way to ‘biohack sleep’, Lipotrue offers iPeptide (acetyl hexapeptide-8), which provides melatonin-like protection, attentuates inflammation and restores the skin’s immune capacity, as well as improving hyperpigmentation and reinforcing the epidermal barrier, helping the skin to defend itself. According to Mateu, it
downregulates the pro-inflammatory alarmin cytokine IL-33, which is over- expressed in chronic inflammatory
“It’s only a matter of time until we see an eye care range that offers topical products and matching supplements to keep eyes bright
conditions, accelerating the inflammation and oxidative stress caused by a lack of sleep. It also protects against glycation and lipid peroxidation in a similar way to melatonin, which is a potent antioxidant, as well as regulating the body’s circadian rhythms and reinforcing the first line of immune defence in our skin. In in vivo testing, 24 volunteers aged 50-64, each getting around five to six hours of sleep a day, applied a cream containing 3% iPeptide twice a day for 28 days. 73% said they felt as if they had “slept all night”, while 69% agreed that the ingredient helps fight the signs of fatigue; 63% said it had a cooling effect and 43% said that their eyes appeared more open after application. Also adopting a wellness approach is BASF with its bioactive ingredient Inolixir, extracted from chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) from the north Canadian forest. It has been obtained using eco-friendly subcritical water extraction, said to extract phytochemicals more efficiently than standard water extraction or hydroethanolic extraction. Aiming to combine wellness and dermocosmetic solutions, it helps to fortify the skin’s natural protection system by strengthening barrier function and the microvascular network.
By harnessing the power of this superfood, used in medicine for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, BASF is aiming to tap into the popularity of a more holistic approach to skin care and wellness, as well as natural products.
BASF’s Inolixir harnesses the wellbeing benefits of the chaga mushroom
20 January 2021
In clinical studies, within one to four weeks of topical use, consumers experienced the same benefits using 1% Inolixir as after a five-day spa experience including facial sauna and massages: reduction in dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles and a more radiant complexion overall, according
to Clarius. Meanwhile, 85% of respondents said they saw a noticeable health benefit for their skin and 91% said their skin felt more comfortable within seven to 28 days of application.
A VISION OF THE FUTURE So, as we begin 2021, what does the future hold for eye care? As the Covid- 19 pandemic continues to accelerate trends and redefine industry norms, Lipotrue’s Mateu comments: “We can say that the future is already here and now we have to try to foresee what the next future will be.” As BASF’s Clarius points out, the ongoing use of protective equipment such as face masks has made the eye area a focal point of perception so it is likely we will continue to see more launches in this area.
“BASF picked up this evolution and recently introduced a compilation of active ingredients for use in decorative cosmetics, including specific actives against dark circles, crow’s feet and promoting eyelash growth.” Fisher also predicts that the industry-wide focus on health and wellness will continue to develop in eye care, providing new opportunities. “We’ve already seen eye health claims growing in food and drink innovation, and with a number of beauty brands launching supplement ranges, it’s only a matter of time until we see an eye care range that offers topical products and matching supplements to keep eyes bright, or even a range of blue light shielding glasses from a beauty brand.” Meanwhile, Codif’s Moro adds: “This is an area that requires powerful ingredients because consumers’ expectations are very high.”
Advances in technology will not only result in ingredients promising fast results with long lasting effects, but also demand for “a high degree of naturality”, as consumers embrace a more wellness-driven, holistic approach to their skin, she says. “Fewer eye care products claim to be anti-ageing now, and instead are creating ranges specifically catered to older women,” notes Fisher. As the industry continues its shift towards a more inclusive future, promising brighter and healthier skin for all ages, there is no shortage of options to help consumers maintain that elusive glow
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Максим Шанин via Wikimedia Commons
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