PEPTIDES WHITE PAPER
Sadly, strong and supple skin does not last forever. Environmental factors such as diet, smoking or UV light can burn up the body’s collagen supply. Moreover, as we age, our body generates less and lower quality collagen. As a result, the collagen network in the dermis becomes thinner and more fragmented (figure 1), leading to reduced skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Eventually, the degradation of collagen fibres leads to the visual signs of ageing, such as wrinkles and loss of firmness.
The reduction of collagen fibres can also affect hair since there is collagen in the hair follicle. The lack of follicle support could lead to weaker and thinner hair fibres that can easily break. Ageing is inevitable, but collagen’s beneficial properties for skin and hair appearance could help delay the visual effects. Its high demand and trending status on digital media stem from a growing body of scientific research.
Collagen
supplements can improve the signs of ageing for both skin and hair
SCIENCE THAT BACKS THE HYPE Rousselot has gone back to the basics of skin condition to find out how collagen peptides can enhance beauty from within. Peptan collagen peptides are produced by a targeted enzymatic hydrolysis, meaning that collagen is specifically cut into more easily digestible pieces (ie collagen peptides).
Clinical trials showed that collagen peptides are bioactive, inducing collagen as well as hyaluronic acid production in the skin (online access: doi: 10.1111/jocd.12174). As a consequence, skin hydration increased and the quality of the dermal collagen network improved. Recently, collagen peptides supplementation for skin and hair improvement was clinically evaluated in a study with 60 healthy women. The study was conducted to evaluate both the
Figure 2 Results of the clinical study with 60 healthy women, aged 45-60 years old, supplemented with collagen peptides or the placebo. Effects on skin desquamation are displayed as scores calculated at the onset of the study (T0), after 45 (T45) and 90 (T90) days of supplementation
supplement performance as well as the consumer’s response. The product used was Peptan B, a very pure, natural product containing (on a dry weight basis) more than 97% collagen peptides of bovine origin.
The 60 healthy female participants, aged 45-60 years old, were given 5g/day of either Peptan B or a placebo for 90 days (figure 2). After 45 and 90 days, the skin of the participants was evaluated using biophysical, high-definition imaging, and high-frequency ultrasound techniques to detect changes in hydration, cutaneous microrelief, wrinkles and thickness of the dermis. The supplementation with collagen peptides over 90 days showed a reduction in skin desquamation (shedding of the epidermis layer)
Figure 4 Ultrasound images of the dermis of the participants supplemented with collagen peptides (A, B, C) or the placebo (D, E, F) at the onset of the study (T0, A and D) and after 45 (T45, B and E) and 90 (T90, C and F) days of supplementation. The higher the dermis density, the more light-coloured spots (white, yellow) are in the image
Figure 3
High resolution images of the eye wrinkles of a placebo (A and B) and a collagen peptides (C and D) supplemented volunteer at the onset of the study (T0, A and C) and after 90 days (T90, B and D) of supplementation
cosmeticsbusiness.com
January 2021 25
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