EYE CARE INGREDIENTS
A
ccording to the old saying, the eyes are the windows to the soul, and in recent times, it is safe to say they
have been facing some strain. With the inescapable shadow of the Covid-19 pandemic hanging over the past year, sleepless nights and long days staring into screens have taken their toll on consumers’ hard-working eyes – and sparked a flurry of activity in the ingredients sector as brands seek to offer tired eyes the TLC they need. “The eyes have always been one of women’s top concerns when it comes to their skin – many say it is the first area where they notice signs of ageing,” Alex Fisher, Associate Director, Beauty and Personal Care at Mintel, tells Cosmetics Business. These include wrinkles, dark circles and eye bags, which develop due to the skin here being more delicate, as well as constant contracting for blinking and expressing emotions, causing it to age prematurely. Torsten Clarius, Business Development Manager, Active Ingredients at BASF, explains: “The skin around the eyes is characterised by a weaker collagen network and less fatty tissue than the remaining facial skin. As the skin of the eye area is also much thinner, blood vessels and deteriorations of the structures below the surface are much more visible.” This makes the skin here more susceptible to fatigue, brought about by a combination of lifestyle factors such as lack of sleep, smoking and an unhealthy diet, and environmental ones like pollution and sun exposure. And with many face-to- face interactions replaced with Zoom calls due to restrictions, we are more familiar with our own faces than ever.
“Thanks to the increase in video calls or online gym classes etc, people are far more exposed to their own reflections than they would be on an average day before Covid-19. Therefore, they are noticing the condition of their skin in more detail, and awareness of ageing has been heightened,” says Fisher. When developing products to address these issues, manufacturers must take the delicate nature of the skin here into consideration.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
“The eyes have always been one of women’s top concerns when it comes to their skin
within one hour of application; and those due to fat storage, which take around two weeks of treatment.
“Formulations should be gentle with the eye area, absorb quickly and try to offer a complete treatment, providing moisture, protection, attenuation of wrinkles, dark circles and eyelid firmness,” advises Míriam Mateu, Product Manager at Spain-based active ingredients manufacturer Lipotrue. In terms of delivery, “eye care formulations are manifold and widely depend on the consumer’s individual preference”, adds Clarius. “Water- based gels and ampoule products hydrate with a certain cooling effect, whereas emulsions may be easier to distribute and provide additional care.” One of the fastest-growing ingredients in this sector, notes Fisher, is propanediol (PDO), which helps the skin absorb ingredients more quickly and is available from the likes of Royal DSM as Tilamar PDO.
Meanwhile, ‘de-puffing’ remains a popular claim for eye products, and there has been a rise in different textures and applicators such as rollerballs and cooling under-eye patches, according to Fisher. To target under-eye bags, Codif Technologie Naturelle offers B-Shape, an active ingredient derived from Polysiphonia brodiei, a red algae cultivated on ropes in the sea in Brittany, France. This unique
cultivation method allows the company to deliver a high quality and certified organic ingredient, according to Gabrielle Moro, Marketing and Communication Director at Codif.
It works to reduce two different types of eye bags: those caused by water retention, said to be treated
InitialE [PT+TMG] from Naolys uses glycine betain from Beta vulgaris to help skin around the eye area regain brightness and mantain its original shape and colour
LOOKING ON THE BRIGHT SIDE But while the eyes have always been a key target for facial care, something that is shifting is consumers’ attitude towards ageing, as Fisher observes. “The pandemic has accelerated a couple of trends we were already taking notice of in the beauty industry which have affected eye care – the importance of health, for example. “Instead of trying to stop ageing, we are looking at natural factors like diet and sleeping patterns to improve the appearance of our skin, wanting it to look healthy and glowing.” Interestingly, the language used by consumers and brands is evolving in line with this to become more positive; over the last two to three years, wrinkle reduction claims have declined, says Fisher, and are being replaced by promises to increase collagen and brighten skin. “We’ve seen many eye care launches incorporating niacinamide, as well as hydroxyacetophenone, a synthetic antioxidant,” she says. “Vitamins and antioxidants are often paired with this brightening message, and we’ve seen a growth in vitamin and mineral fortification claims as eye care products seek to boost their brightening performance.”
InitialE [PT+TMG] from Naolys, for example, features a plant cell complex of tuberose and betaine to act on the three major changes that affect the area around the eyes: dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles. Tuberose from the white heliotrope flower is enriched with glycine betain extracted from Beta vulgaris (beetroot) in order to boost the bioavailability of the plant’s active molecules. Over time, the blood and lympathic microcirculation system in the eye area deterioriates, while its high concentration of mast cells makes skin susceptible to irritations, intolerances and allergies that cause redness, causing the skin to lose its shape and colour as we age. InitialE [PT+TMG] helps to rehydrate and redensify, regulate inflammation and revive circulation in the skin around the eyes, helping it to regain brightness and maintain its original shape.
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