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PACKAGING SPEED-TO-MARKET


For those brands without backing from big beauty players, the fewer components required within the pack design the easier it is to ensure speed-to-market, as Michelle Wong, Global Director of Design & Marketing at packaging group Asquan, explains.


“Our intimate manufacturing knowledge allows us to design components with the fewest amount of parts in mind, as well as forecasting multiple iterations utilising the same parts. “By doing so, we are able to turn around designs that are different and unique quickly and efficiently,” she notes. “We also look at trends in formulations, creating delivery systems that are in line with these trends and adapting our current stock offerings to be accepting of these new delivery systems, reducing tooling and lead times.” Cult skin care brand Milk Makeup ditched chunky jars for its product line in favour of a more lightweight stick packaging with twist-up technology. Offering functionality for on-the-go consumers, a trend still developing in the active beauty category, Milk was able to adapt a number of the formulations in its beauty line to meet the pack specifications. Today, Milk Makeup offers bronzers, blushers, highlighter, skin care oils, serums and masks in this packaging option. The New York brand is a key example of how a simple packaging option with an innovative formula can tap into a trend and ensure speed-to- market without added complexities. “Agility has been kind of important in some respects. But, in terms of super-fast agility, of responding to changes that are happening now, that’s really come on leaps and bounds in the last couple of years,” says Punchard, who adds that this has been “driven in part by huge expansion in the availability of digital print”. Capabilities in digital print have been the disruptor of the packaging world, according to Punchard. The ability to shake-up the on-pack design to quickly respond to a trend and deliver a shorter run of a product with a different design is, in itself, quite novel.


“If you look at some of the machinery companies, the ability to quickly convert your line is now something that is a definite sales point that all of them are pushing... more are pushing the idea that they are also really agile in terms of the ability to have very little downtime when switching between various options.” These capabilities have given beauty brands the opportunity to be more creative with their on- pack designs, while ensuring they can still be placed on the market quickly. Brands can also respond to socio-economic issues that are important to consumers.


A-beauty brand Face Halo adopted a rainbow design for its best selling make-up remover pads in celebration of Pride month, while Aveda


34 January 2021


switched up the packaging of its limited-edition Hand Relief Moisturizing Crème for Breast Cancer Awareness by housing the product in a pink tube with the group’s symbolic pink ribbon.


Meanwhile, luxury packaging business Stoelzle Glass Group, which holds names including Tom Ford and Paco Rabanne in its client portfolio, has upped its digital printing capabilities in order to allow for greater speed-to- market opportunities. According to the company’s website, “time is money” and it guarantees a product turnaround – from drawing to samples – within four to six weeks.


“Start-ups and indie brands cannot afford to stock and they source packaging on demand, so quick turnaround is essential


“Development has to be completed to the agreed timeframe and in the shortest time possible to give the speed-to-market which is so important in an age when design and fashion trends change so quickly,” it adds.


“Stoelzle gives primary importance to achieving the required quality to ensure customer satisfaction and product success.”


SIMPLICITY EQUALS AGILITY Packaging industry giant Quadpack has been turning to the automotive and fashion sectors to adopt packaging solutions that can transcend changing movements in the beauty market. The group tells Cosmetics Business its focus has been on developing smart, modular solutions, to create components that are adaptable to a host of brands’ needs. “With a wide variety of formats available, a brand can create a complete, attractive and coherent collection, with packs for each kind of beauty product, all with the same look and feel,” says Quadpack’s Head of Product Communications, Isabelle de Maistre. “In beauty, trends are fluid. In make-up in particular, trends change rapidly and pack design needs to be optimised to adapt to shifts in demand. The US is a particularly fast-moving market, with high demand for short lead times.” Responding to the increased number of indie and niche beauty brands on the market, in 2018 Quadpack launched InStockPack, an e-commerce platform to service the growing number of niche and indie brands in the space.


cosmeticsbusiness.com


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