PEER-REVIEW | DERMATOLOGY | trans-epidermal loss of water. It is therefore rational to
incorporate rich moisturizers for the darker skin races to address the dry and cracking skin. AHA based products help to promote cell shedding and restore hydration. Adding regular exfoliants in skin care may be beneficial for darker skin types. Care should be taken to avoid harsh abrasives as these may lead to skin irritation and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. One of the main concerns in darker skin types is dyschromia and uneven skin tone. Skin brighteners and bleachers that suppress the melanin formation may be incorporated into the skin care products. Blending these agents with an early introduction of antioxidants may help to prevent or delay the process of pigmentary changes in this group. The depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone should be used with caution due to the possibility of developing complications, such as ochronosis. The main concern of the fairer skin group is the
development of wrinkles at an early stage. Many cosmeceutical ingredients such as retinoids, peptides and growth factors are known to address fine wrinkling60,61
. Tropical retoinoids such as tretinoin have The variable pattern of
ageing among the tan skin group poses a challenge in selecting the appropriate cosmeceutical. The
a g
pig p p
been shown to increase the collagen content in the upper papillary dermis, thus helping to smooth out fine and coarse wrinkles. Peptides are proteins composed of long and short chain amino acids. Some of the penta and hexa peptides are known to have a stimulatory effect on collagen production38
. It may be beneficial
pigmentary changes such as melasma and freckles are becoming a noticeable
problem among the ageing
Asians. When compared with the fair skin types this group have fewer tendencies to develop wrinkling and sagging of the skin.
Asia the
to integrate these compounds in the skin care routine of the fair skin groups. The variable pattern of ageing
observed in the older groups29
among the tan skin group poses a challenge in selecting the appropriate cosmeceutical. The pigmentary changes such as melasma and freckles are becoming a noticeable problem among ageing Asians. When compared with the fair skin types this group have fewer tendencies to develop wrinkling and sagging of the skin. Moderate wrinkling related to photoageing has been . Therefore a mixture of
active ingredients may be necessary to address these issues. Climate and geographic changes can have an impact
50
on the skin, and the resultant problems vary with seasonal changes. Global migration and resettlement has resulted in unpredictable responses to the photoageing and climate changes in all races. Rain and wind dominate the fall season leaving the skin dry and flaky. The cold winter causes more dryness and the skin may benefit from rich moisturizers and replenishing night creams during these seasons. In the summer the air is more humid and moist. It may be rational to incorporate antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, niacinamide and
January/February 2016 |
prime-journal.com
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