PEER-REVIEW | DERMATOLOGY | been acknowledged that the genetic properties of the
skin can play an important role in evaluating an individual’s response to dermatological interventions, the importance of incorporating this principle in the selection of cosmeceuticals has not been explored. As the understanding of the biological and structural
variations of the skin among ethnic groups becomes clearer, it is imperative to think about the differing roles of skin care in these groups. Addressing the results of the ageing process may not be the best way forward. The routine skin care should be directed towards prevention or retardation of these specific issues relating to different races. Hence, the cosmeceuticals must be chosen to act against specific problems related to a particular ethnic group and skin type. It is not feasible for one type of product or ingredient to act against the problems related to all skin types. Therefore, the skin care product must be targeted towards a specific skin type, based on the ethnic and genetic background of the individual. Based on the existing classifications, skin type, and
photoageing pattern, the author broadly classifies individuals into three major categories. This grouping of various races is not only based on the skin colour but also depends on many factors, such as photoageing:
Common
cosmeceuticals such as
antioxidants, peptides, and
moisturizers will be beneficial for all skin types. The effective
combination of these active
ingredients in the best possible
proportions for each group is the key for success.
Fair skin types e.g. Nordic and European » Signs of ageing appear early, with wrinkles and sagging as predominant features
» Risk of skin cancer is high » Scars heal well.
Tan skin types e.g. Central and East-Asian, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern » Signs of ageing appear later than in group one, especially in the form of fine wrinkles and pigmentation changes
» Low risk of skin cancer » Scars behave variably.
Darker skin types e.g. South Asian, African, Afro- Caribbean » Signs of ageing appear very late » Wrinkles are uncommon but pigmentation changes are observed frequently
» Skin cancers are very rare » Some races have a tendency towards keloid formation.
This categorization highlights the differing
photoageing pattern among the races and the skin’s reaction to physiological and pathological situations. It also depicts the problems specifically related to people from various ethnic backgrounds. Based on these facts, the author suggests that the active ingredients of the skin care products could be selected to target the concerns specific to each group. The active ingredients can be incorporated into the daily skin care products for maintenance, prevention, and treatment of the specific problems identified in each category. Existing products in the market are directed toward
the basic skin types but are expected to produce results in all races. Discerning consumers pick and choose products according to their ability and judgement, and it is often a trial-and-error process with a long learning curve, and significant financial commitment. On most occasions the consumer uses the chosen products continuously for many years. It has been a constant observation that the clinical response of the product may plateau or decline with continuous usage, as the skin become acclimatized to the ingredients. The author’s pragmatic approach to skin care may help to overcome this hurdle of confusion in selecting the suitable skin care line for an individual.
Judicial selection of cosmeceuticals Common cosmeceuticals such as antioxidants, peptides, and moisturizers will be beneficial for all skin types. The effective combination of these active ingredients in the best possible proportions for each group is the key for success. Sunscreens are the most important component in the daily skin care regimen as it is a preventive tool against skin cancers. They are also necessary in retarding photoageing effects in all the skin types and preventing UV ray induced dyschromia in the tan and darker skin groups. Based on the previous findings it has been observed
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that darker skin types have a compact epidermis with an increased rate of desquamation and increased
January/February 2016 |
prime-journal.com
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