| COSMECEUTICALS | INDUSTRY INSIDER
patients seeking products for hyperpigmentation and dark circles under the eyes. ‘In addition, products to reduce the appearance of large pores and treatments for adult female acne are in demand,’ he says. Another emerging category, topical scar treatments, is
also gaining recognition among patients, according to Dr. Babar Rao in New York City. They are frequently looking for something more effective than standard over the counter options, and treatments for post-surgical scarring. According to New York City dermatologist Diane
Berson, ‘I am seeing more patients asking for products as well as treatments for targeted areas, such as “What can I do for my eyes for discoloration, bags, and wrinkles?” They are also requesting products for non-facial areas, such as the neck, chest, and hands to improve texture, tone and pigment. Products that address pores and redness are also important to offer in your practice.’
Natural beauty There is a growing awareness of natural ingredients among consumers. In fact, consumers are seeking full transparency from skin care brands on their sourcing methods, production, ingredients, and overall sustainability practices, according to market research group Kline Group1
. ‘Natural’ product lines are in demand
among a certain set of patients. Plano, TX dermatologist Seemal Desai says, ‘My patients also ask for antioxidants and want more natural botanical based products. I have many patients who specifically ask for non prescription anti- aging products, skin lightening agents, and complexion neutralizers,’ he says. Dermatologist Maritza Perez in New Canaan, CT is also seeing this trend. ‘My younger patients are asking for more natural products, free of preservatives, especially paraben-free. They are also very interested in coconut oil and honey for topical application. I try to educate them that coconut oil is anti-bacterial and emollient and honey is occlusive to the skin but has no anti-aging benefits. I also explain that some small amounts of preservatives are necessary for extending the shelf life of products.’
Oral supplements There is still a fair amount of controversy and debate over whether skin supplements add value. ‘I do not believe there is a specific supplement that
holds the key to anti-ageing. I don’t think we have the magic potion just yet. However, I do believe in replacing any vitamin or minerals that are abnormal by laboratory monitoring, such at iron levels, ferritin, and zinc. Normal levels of all of these can also help with skin healing after procedures, but there is no value in taking these medications if there is no abnormal level,’
says Dr. McMichael. Dr. Desai is a proponent of certain skin supplements. ‘Specifically, I use lots of polypodium leucotomas for melasma and vitiligo. It also has a UV protective component so it’s even good for patients with a history of skin cancers or sub-sensitivity because at least I know their body is getting some UV protection,’ he says. Dermatologist Leslie Baumann in Miami, FL, is a firm
I have many patients who
specifically ask for non prescription anti-aging
products, skin
lightening agents, and complexion neutralizers.
believer in supplementation. ‘I believe you cannot get enough antioxidants. You need them topically and by mouth. I recommend Heliocare® (fern extract) to my patients daily and coenzyme Q10 200 mg supplements from any brand in the morning because it hypes you up so you do not take it at night. I also recommend that they drink lots of green tea. They can buy beauty drinks if they want to, but I tell my patients to make sure they do not have a lot of sugar or they will actually increase skin ageing through glycation.” Dr. Perez is also in favor of oral supplements, not only for the skin, but for the whole body. ‘I believe, and there is science-based documentation to support it, in the intake
of niacinamide as an antioxidant to reverse single oxygen radical damage to the skin and organs, replenish mitochondrial energy and reverse pollutant induced damage. I also recommend Vitamin C and E as antioxidants taken orally, and Polypodium leucotomos for sun protection. The newest addition to my essential regimen is individually encapsulated vitamin C to prevent oxidation and facilitate the transportability of it. I also prescribe Viviscal® Professional for hair and nail growth,’ she says. Probiotics is another buzzword in skin care and beauty
products, and it’s a concept that consumers seem to gravitate to. According to Dr Berson, probiotics may be helpful for conditions that involve inflammation such as
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