PEER-REVIEW | DERMATOLOGY |


hyperpigmentation is aimed at reducing the production and distribution of epidermal pigments. Hydroquinone is still considered as the gold standard topical agent. It acts by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, thereby reducing the conversion of DOPA to melanin. The other possible mechanisms of action are the destruction of melanocytes, degradation of melanosomes, and the inhibition of the synthesis of DNA and RNA52,53


. Some of


the other skin lightening agents includes ascorbic acid, kojic acid, and arbutin. Kojic acid is a naturally occurring hydrophilic fungal derivative evolved from certain species of Acetobacter, Aspergillus, and Penicillium. It acts by inhibiting the production of free tyrosinase with efficacy similar to hydroquinone. Arbutin is a naturally occurring plant derived compound that has been used for post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, also known as -D-glucopyranoside, it is a derivative of hydroquinone54,55


. Retinoids are the most investigated compound used in


cosmeceuticals. These are either natural or synthetic derivatives of vitamin A and include retinoic acid, retinol, and retinaldehyde. Retinoic acid (Tretinoin) is a potent anti-ageing compound that is used to treat wrinkles and hyperpigmented spots56,57


. Retinoids can be used as a


monotherapy but the efficiency is shown to improve when used in combination with hydroquinone58–61


. Unlike combat photo damage and interrupt the chemical


signals that causes melanin production. Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E) reduces the effects of acute sunburn and neutralizes the free radicals. This is often combined with Vitamin C to provide an effective protection against UV radiation43,44


. Ubiquinone is a


powerful antioxidants that can supress expression of collagenase following UVA radiation and therefore reduces the collagen breakdown. These ingredients are used in combination in many formulas that have shown to produce a synergistic effect on the skin45,46


. The alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) are


becoming popular additions to skin care formulas. These are mainly fruit acids and examples include lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and malic acid. These components mainly act by promoting shedding of the cells and restoring hydration47,48


most other cosmeceuticals the effect of the topical de- pigmenting agents has been analysed extensively. Even though hydroquinone is considered as a potent depigmenting agent its use is restricted due to the potential complications such as ochronosis, permanent depigmentation, and potential carcinogenicity62


. The


botanicals and related compounds form the major portion of the cosmeceuticals and are used extensively. Many of these compounds have a clinical effect but mostly unsupported by any studies63


. . The exact mechanism


of action of the AHA’s is not known. It has been postulated that these compounds act by reducing the calcium ions in the epidermis. Removal of calcium ions results in disruption of the cell adhesions and therefore desquamation. The reduced calcium level on the skin slows down the cell differentiation and promotes cell growth. A recent study performed with anti-ageing products containing AHAs and vitamins reported on the improved biomechanical parameters of the skin49–51


. Skin lightning agents are one of the most


desired cosmeceuticals, especially by the darker skin races. The topical treatment for


46  Retinoids are the most investigated compound used in


cosmeceuticals. These are either natural or synthetic derivatives of vitamin A and include retinoic acid, retinol, and retinaldehyde.


January/February 2016 | prime-journal.com


The pragmatic approach to skin care The ageing process results from the interaction between two main factors: the intrinsic factors (genetically determined) and the extrinsic factors (environmental). The response of the skin to this process depends on the interplay between these two factors. The genetic composition and therefore the ethnic background of an individual largely determine the outcome of the ageing process. Cosmeceuticals play an important role in preventing and delaying the ageing process. Judicial selection and rational approach to skin care is therefore necessary to address the


ageing process and to maintain the integrity of the skin. Many of the products in the cosmetic market are especially created to target basic skin types, which are normal, dry, oily, and sensitive. The special preparations are often made for specific skin conditions, such as acne, wrinkles, pigmentation, and other ageing related complications. Even though it has


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